Old greybeard looking for motorized info

Fellow riders:
Been lurking for quite some time now, but have come upon a point of concern in trying to wake up an advertiser. Let me digress a bit for this thread being an introduction. I'm retired and have several interrelated hobbies. Antique aircraft, Cushman & Mustang motorscooters, Model T Ford Speedsters are the major areas of my interest, that is, until someone said that there's no way that a Chinese bicycle motor and a 5sp derailleur could be mounted in my 1st gen, Schwinn Chopper bicycle. I just love to tell these clowns to hide in the bushes and watch. Well, using several of your vendors, including ones that sell the jackshafts, the multicable brake lever, the freewheels for both the peddles and rear wheel, the 5sp rear sprocket cluster, the rear disk brake & caliper, the extractor exhaust pipe, the handle mounted shifter, the 80cc motor (actually cc's at 66.5) boost bottle etc. etc. After custom fabricating a motor mount that positions the motor so its looks right in the bicycle frame, and lot of trial and fitting, I've come up with a little terror that can do 40mph in 4th gear. I'm afraid to put it in 5th (I don't bounce anymore, just splat). Now my reason for joining. I can't get this thing to idle and have not been successful in getting it to 2 cycle, always 4 cycle. Tried all needle settings, and several gas ratios, settling on a 40/1 mix of Amsoil 100/1 additive that seems to run the best, with the given carb. This carb isn't worth the beer cans that was melted down to make it. Now.....I've been trying to get in touch with a Co. called Spooky Tooth about a couple of carbs their advertising, 1 being called a CNS and the other a 66 NT (imagine that) or any other ideas they might have about my problem. Now you would think that a customer ready to spend money would generate a little interest (not). Maby one of your listers might have an idea for carburators. By the way, I've ported the engine out about 75 % of max. and it does run quite well on 4 cycle. I only have a little over 1 tank of gas thru it. I'd be interested in any feedback.....Byron

Being new to this forum, and having been asked for a picture, I really don't know how to respond, just a picture of the finished Chopper, or maybe some shots showing some of the mechanical makeup. I guess I'll start with just a shot of the completed machine. I have a few shots of the mechanicals if anyone is interested......Byron I hope the picture comes across

I think that the length of the carb runner might be a problem. Here are a couple more shots of the bike.

Appreciate all of your inputs. Before I reshape the intake pipe, I think I'll try the "boost" bottle. Anyone tried this thing. I originally thought it was a bunch of snake oil, but in talking to a couple of go-kart people, they said to try it I just might like it. I would like to hear a consensus between the Mikuni (sp) and the CNC (sp) carbs, as I still would like to have a little more adjustment that just jacking the slide up and down. Are included are the last shots I have available of the bike. If you would like any detailed shot let me know. A couple of pro's and con's that went into the build are:
(1)+++ Front brakes & (2)--- Having to peddle to start the engine......With my arrangement there is no 'coaster' brake nor 'compression' braking from the engine. Any thing above 15mph, the rear only brake is an invitation to disaster, with the original brake quickly folded up into nothing, and that's really uncool, don't ask me how I know. On the other hand, a front brake can also lead to disaster if applied incorrectly. So now that both handle bars are occupied with their own levers, how to add a front brake and lever. I remember seeing a brake lever with 2 cables, I guess I'm not the only one with the problem. In replacing the collapsed rear brake (rim squeezer) with a 210mm disk, I used a caliper with a very handy adjuster built in. The front brake had to be a squeezer becaus of the type of lacing used, so I adapted a squeezer from a old 10sp. After rigging up the cables it was quite easy to adjust the braking bias so that the rear brake locks up before the front, so the front tire won't wash out from under you in a panic stop. (another lesson learned the hard way). Now the only thing I really don't like about this build is that you "Have" to peddle to start the engine. I would have been neat to use the inertia of the bike itself to help overcome the compression. As it is, I don't think it would be possible to start a higher compression engine. Enought for now......Byron