A choke mod so good that I have to share it!

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bluegoatwoods

Active Member
Jul 29, 2012
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I can't claim credit for the idea. When I was a newbie, spring 2008, a veteran described this idea in a post somewhere. And I've kept it in mind ever since.

I can't remember who it was. Maybe Wheelbender? Maybe AZBill? I think it was someone in the Southwest. Whoever it was deserves kudos for some good thinking.

Anyway, this mod will give good control of the choke from the handlebar. Use the twist shifter that used to control your front derailleur and run the cable to the choke.

On my bike, with an offset intake, I had to make a fairly large L bracket to serve as the cable sheath stop. On most builds it could be a good deal smaller. The return spring is that spring that comes with the kit for the clutch.
DSCN0448.JPG
From left side.JPG

One word of warning; You can not attach the cable out at the end of the choke lever. Where the little nubs for your fingers are located. The reason is that your shifter does not have enough 'throw' to cover all spots from 'fully open' to 'fully closed'. I learned that the hard way.

You must attach that cable closer to the fulcrum of the lever.
Here.jpg

Let's see......is there anything else I need to explain? I doubt it. It's a pretty simple modification and I'm sure the pics tell the story.

Go ahead and do this. You won't be sorry. My chilly morning starts have been so much easier and smoother with precise fingertip choke control. It's pure luxury.
 

bluegoatwoods

Active Member
Jul 29, 2012
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Central Illinois
No, Tom. It took me a couple of years from my early days to even discover this particular forum. It was somewhere else. And it was just a handful of words. "Run a cable from the choke to a shifter" or something like that.

But that thread certainly covers the same ground, doesn't it? And I see that you built something almost identical as early as fall 2008. The steel tube 'sheath' was a good idea.
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
That is an old thread.
Funny, but I still have that bike. I retired it long ago but it's still hanging from my garage ceiling. I might have to bring it down someday and see if still runs. Ran great when I stopped riding it and went to cruiser frames. That old orange bike about beat me to death it rode so rough. :)

Tom
 

bluegoatwoods

Active Member
Jul 29, 2012
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Central Illinois
One of my early bikes was built on a ten-speed frame. Practically the same as a mountain bike.

I don't recall it being particularly more rough than a beach cruiser. Have you found one or the other to be a harder ride?
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
The orange bike was just a simple road bike; skinny tires, short straight handlebars and a hard saddle. It took bumps like a log wagon and rattled my teeth. I put a springer fork on it and there was little improvement. The second bike was a Schwinn Jaguar. Fat tires and a slightly longer frame. The difference in ride was amazing. That's why I've stuck with cruiser/chopper style frames. Soft, comfortable rides.
I also build my own saddles and design them for my bony little backside. That helps.

Tom
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
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Central Area of Texas
8 have planned to make an easy to reach manual choke so I dont have to reach so far down on mine also, my plan has always been to have the control mounted under the seat so I can actuall6 work it with my left hand, just haven't got around to making it.

I have to agree about the "Diamond" frame bikes, I have two of them and they are the roughest riding hands down, frames are very tall and stiff.

Cruiser frames with big tires are so much better riding bikes, they handle easier and dont beat you t9 pieces like the road bike type frames.
 

bluegoatwoods

Active Member
Jul 29, 2012
1,581
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Central Illinois
In the case of my old ten-speed MB I just barely managed to squeeze a couple of mountain bike rims in there. So I was riding on nice, wide tires. If that frame gave a harder ride than any others, then I just didn't notice.

But I think I'm going with all beach cruisers in the future anyway. The main reason is that I've about given up on multi-speeds on the pedal side. It just makes that rear wheel too complex. What a headache.

Though one day I do gotta try the sbp shift kit. So I'll need at least one more multi-speed one day. When I do, though, I think it's likely to be the electric. That just looks like about the best electric set-up I've ever seen.
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
109
63
Central Area of Texas
In the case of my old ten-speed MB I just barely managed to squeeze a couple of mountain bike rims in there. So I was riding on nice, wide tires. If that frame gave a harder ride than any others, then I just didn't notice.

But I think I'm going with all beach cruisers in the future anyway. The main reason is that I've about given up on multi-speeds on the pedal side. It just makes that rear wheel too complex. What a headache.

Though one day I do gotta try the sbp shift kit. So I'll need at least one more multi-speed one day. When I do, though, I think it's likely to be the electric. That just looks like about the best electric set-up I've ever seen.
Just do like I do to some of my multispeed wheels and put a single speed freewheel sprocket on in place of the cassette.

Here is a link to where I get mine on ebay.

Of course you dont have to go with a 22T, but I like them since they give a much easier to pedal gear ratio with a 44T crank sprocket, but an 18T works just as well if you use a 36T crank sprocket.

There are several sellers on ebay that have these, I just usually get mine from either China or Hong Kong since they're cheaper that way And Im usually not in that big of a hurry for them.


http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=191157730488&alt=web