Easy custom tensioner for steel frames

maniac57 · May 9, 2013

Cut the slotted portion off the stock kit tensioner and welded it on the frame.
Much more reliable and spoke-friendly!

Chain seems to run a bit quieter as well as tracking onto the rear sprocket much better.
Plus it's bulletproof.
(and free)

Wickedest1 · May 9, 2013

Nice job bro...thanks for the tip...someone with the capabilities will definitely benefit...

dodge dude94 · May 9, 2013

Sometimes it's actually beneficial to be able to move that idler back and forth along the frame to correct for (cheap) chain stretch early on. Granted, somebody with a 415 chain likely wouldn't have that issue.
BTW, nice weld job.

Venice Motor Bikes · May 9, 2013

That's a great idea, & it looks great... How'd you come up with it? haha

bigbutterbean · May 10, 2013

I have to agree with the advantage of being able to move the tensioner back and forth on the frame. I have a spring-loaded tensioner, which is working out great and a lot less risk of it spinning into the spokes because the force that would normally transfer from the chain to the idler, causing it to twist into the spokes, is now transferred to the spring instead. Anyway, even with a spring loaded tensioner, I've still had to reposition it a few times as the chain wore in.

2door · May 10, 2013

The bracket doesn't need to move. If you allow enough adjustment by making the slot long enough the welded bracket will work perfectly.

I did this one on a 24" bike I built a couple of years ago. After two owners It's still on the bike and still working.

Good Job, Maniac. But my paint matched better than yours

Tom

scotto- · May 10, 2013

bigbutterbean said:
Anyway, even with a spring loaded tensioner, I've still had to reposition it a few times as the chain wore in.

Chains don't normally wear in...........they wear out

I really like being able to adjust the motor-drive chain tension with the rear entry horizontal drop-outs.........the spokes don't even know that it exists laff

and no welding at all.

Keep it simple and strong, no matter what.

2door · May 10, 2013

That's true IF you have horizontal drop outs or the frame design allows it. Some frames, like the one I pictured above with the severe taper of the chain stay from front to rear, do not lend themselves to running without a tensioner or some type of guide to keep the chain away from the frame.

I run no tensioner whenever I can but it's not always possible with every frame design.

Tom

scotto- · May 10, 2013

2door said:
That's true IF you have horizontal drop outs or the frame design allows it. Some frames, like the one I pictured above with the severe taper of the chain stay from front to rear, do not lend themselves to running without a tensioner or some type of guide to keep the chain away from the frame.

I run no tensioner whenever I can but it's not always possible with every frame design.

Tom

Yes Tom, and that is one of the more important things to consider when selecting a bike or bike frame that you want to motorize. Even moreso when you're running three chains like I do on my current builds.......race or not.

and look at the paint match..........perfect!

dnut

2door · May 10, 2013

Ditto, Scotto.

The problem with most new builders is that without the experience of installing an engine and knowing what it takes to get everything aligned, they won't see the benefits of certain frame designs. Therefore we have to keep them in mind and offer alternatives to running without a tensioner if they end up with a bike without the clearance needed.

Maniac's idea is a good one but limited to those with fabrication and welding skills. All too often we see a newbie who will say he doesn't have any tools or experience and his tensioner just rolled into his spokes. "Now what do I do?"

That's where we come in to offer those alternatives, and be glad that we don't have 3 chains to watch over.

Awsome looking bike, by the way and yes, your paint matches quite well.

Tom

maniac57 · May 10, 2013

2door said:
The bracket doesn't need to move. If you allow enough adjustment by making the slot long enough the welded bracket will work perfectly.

I did this one on a 24" bike I built a couple of years ago. After two owners It's still on the bike and still working.

Good Job, Maniac. But my paint matched better than yours

Tom

You must not of seen pictures of my Pig.
Looks are secondary to function and I had black paint already.
(Translation: I'm lazy)

577-Jersey · May 10, 2013

Thats an awesome idea maniac!!

I just tacked my tensioner to the frame yesterday,,I used tape and spray paint and it looks great,,I will use this idea eventually,,just need to make sure its perfectly lined up before you buzz it.There is no need to slide the stock tensioner around on the frame,,once the chain is adjusted to the point where the slide is all the way up,,its time for a new chain anyway,,unless you want to remove a link or half....new ones are cheap

Good Times...

Tom

Daement · May 31, 2013

Nice work. and I like the chrome muffler. I was wondering if anyone knows what kinda steel alloy this crap stock tensioner is made of. And also was this an arc weld?

577-Jersey · May 31, 2013

I used a cheap Harbor Freight 90 amp.030 flux wire welder,,kinda same thing as stick but self feed and not as clean as MIG,,but it works great,, don't know what kind of steel the Chinese use but it welds ok.Best $100 I ever spent,,I have welded up custom front mounts,exhausts,tubing, reinforced my bumper hitch on my pup truck,even made a custom bike stand out of an old angle iron bed frame I found on the side of the road.Great little welder for the hobbiest,,only downfall is the fumes,,if you don't have a good ventilated area like an open garage door you should use it outside,,cause the fumes from flux core will tear you up eventually

maniac57 · May 31, 2013

I use a cheap Harbor freight stick welder and 1/16 rods. Bought it on sale for under $100 bucks.I prefer stick welders for small home use because rods are cheaper than mig tips and wire.

577-Jersey · May 31, 2013

I hear that,,
Ive spent prolly around 40 extra bucks on tips and wire so far,,might just get a stick next

maniac57 · Jun 1, 2013

harder to lay pretty beads but just as strong if not stronger than mig. Mig is harder to get full penetration than stick, especially for new welders.
I pay about $6bucks a box for 1/16 6013rod.
Cheaper is gooder in my world.

Jumpa · Jun 2, 2013

2door said:
The bracket doesn't need to move. If you allow enough adjustment by making the slot long enough the welded bracket will work perfectly.

I did this one on a 24" bike I built a couple of years ago. After two owners It's still on the bike and still working.

Good Job, Maniac. But my paint matched better than yours

Tom

I like the angle you cut the bottom of yours on it contours with the upper frame bar for a more natural sleek look . Very professional looking

The O.P. is also awesome a little paint and also a very professional look added to the bike. I've always disliked the way the bolt on tensioners look. They stick out like a turd in a punch bowl Good work men!!

Jumpa · Jun 2, 2013

maniac57 said:
Cut the slotted portion off the stock kit tensioner and welded it on the frame.
Much more reliable and spoke-friendly!

Chain seems to run a bit quieter as well as tracking onto the rear sprocket much better.
Plus it's bulletproof.
(and free)

Is that a Huffy Cranebrook

maniac57 · Jun 2, 2013

Huffy Newport

Easy custom tensioner for steel frames

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