Out of the Shadows

GoldenMotor.com

Clintzr2

New Member
Oct 25, 2009
4
0
0
South Boston, Virginia
Hey guys! Thanks to everyone for the great information already posted. By searching Google for so many answers, tips, suggestions, and ideas, I have used this forum for countless hours across the last 6 months. After one electric bike and 3 gas motor builds I have decided it is time to join the forum and share my experience.

1st ATTEMPT:
Bicycle: Currie E-Zip
24volt

I needed to get around in dress cloths without sweating, so I started with an electric bicycle. $450 from Walmart and no modifications required out of the box. At first this bicycle went about 15mph for 6-10 miles without any pedaling. After 3 months the battery would not charge enough to ride more than a mile. I priced a new battery from Currie and it was $150. Seeing this as a likely recurring issue, I sold the electric bike for $200 and decided to go with something that didn’t need charging.



BUILD 1:
Bicycle: Schwinn Point Beach
Engine: 80cc slant head kit from Powerkingshop on ebay.

I kept fixing the things that broke until I felt I had everything bulletproof:
1)Replaced the clutch lever with a motorcycle lever
2)Replaced twist grip with a thumb throttle and external kill switch
3)Replaced crank arms with a wide crank
4)Replaced all of the bike’s bolts/nuts with stronger bolts, locknuts, and rubber washers
5)Added springer fork for suspension and added disc brake



After adjusting the carburetor’s float arms, I now had a 38 mph bike on flat land with 40mph maxed out downhill. I rode the bike for a couple of months until one of the engine mount studs broke (I hadn’t upgraded these). I was unable to extract or drill out the stud, so I had to set the motor aside.

BUILD 2:
Bicycle: (same bicycle):
Engine: GT5 from Spooky Tooth on ebay

This time I swapped engines and upgraded the studs to 8.8 grade and mounted them to exhaust clamps which clamped around thick rubber wrapped around the frame. From day 1 the engine never idled properly or had power. After contacting spooky tooth, trying all of the tips they recommended, I still had a bad motor. After a month of slow rides the powerless motor died completely.

BUILD 3:
Bicycle: 1972 Schwinn Heavy Duty
Engine: 80cc slant head kit from Powerkingshop on ebay

After never being fully satisfied with the mounting of these motors to modern bicycles with large tube frames, I decided to put my next motor on a frame that the motor was made to fit. Because the original Schwinn bicycles had 1 inch tubes, this was ideal. I bought a weathered 1972 Schwinn frame from mlmtam24 on ebay.



Here is what will work when swapping new and old Schwinn parts:
1)New American Crankset is same as old
2)New 1 Inch threaded fork is same as old
3)Headset is differentOld Schwinn has larger headset tube. Must use an original Schwinn headset (bearing cups, bearings, crown race, top race).
4)New Handlebar stem will work but you must use the new fork locknut as the old Schwinn locknut has a smaller inside hole
5)Rear fork is narrower on older Schwinn single speed. I used a new coaster wheel with a single speed and still had to adjust the wheel spacing inward to fit the narrower 1972
frame.
6)Seat post and clamp are smaller on old Schwinn. So small that i installed the seat post upside down because newer seats won't clamp down to fit the small end of the older posts.

The final product is a restored Schwinn with a motor:
1)Sanded engine fins and painted with flat black with header paint
2)Delloroto Sha 15.15 carb from Dellorto Carbs : Dellorto Carburetors, And parts for you.
3)Round aluminum 4x6 gas tank from Prodorutti Quarter Midget Supply - Welcome
4)New Schwinn decals and headbadge from ebay
5)32 tooth pedal sprocket used for engine clearance





Let me know what you think.
 
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Clintzr2

New Member
Oct 25, 2009
4
0
0
South Boston, Virginia
Thanks guys.

I ordered the gas tank from the website posted above, but it is designed for quarter midget and jr dragster racing. I purchased the shortest (6 inch long tank), but they come in 8 and 10 inches long also.
 

rkorson4209

New Member
Oct 10, 2009
250
0
0
michigan
Please excuse my ignorance, but what is that tube coming off of your carb with the red on it. I really love that schwinn, great choice on the tank
 

Blakenstein

Member
Sep 15, 2009
561
2
16
Alta. Canada.
I like what you did with that old Schwinn. What is the gas tank from?
SB
Yes that really is a super job. Some people dont realize just how much work goes into that. The restoration of that old shwinn is something I really admire and respect.That is a lot of work and what a beautiful result..

Hey Silverbear how u doin? it's been a while ; check out my winter wheel free score pics. In this introduction section. :):):):)
 

fuzzball

New Member
Sep 5, 2009
21
0
1
75
Eagle River, Wisc.
I like the front disc brake. Can't see it real clearly, but looks like it's drilled for heat dissapation. Did you add this to your existing front wheel, or is the whole assembly new?. I'd like to add some kind of front brake. My old Schwinn only has the stock coaster brake. Great build!
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Yes that really is a super job. Some people dont realize just how much work goes into that. The restoration of that old shwinn is something I really admire and respect.That is a lot of work and what a beautiful result..

Hey Silverbear how u doin? it's been a while ; check out my winter wheel free score pics. In this introduction section. :):):):)
I'm doin' fine, thanks, and you? Staying warm up there in Alberta? Where are the pics you're referring to?
SB
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
I like the front disc brake. Can't see it real clearly, but looks like it's drilled for heat dissapation. Did you add this to your existing front wheel, or is the whole assembly new?. I'd like to add some kind of front brake. My old Schwinn only has the stock coaster brake.

Depending on your needs and budget an alternative is a NOS Schwinn front caliper brake adapter Look on eBay. About $12.00 I think minus shipping. Along with a wide reach bmx type caliper (bikeworldusa has them) it works well. I've done it to four old Schwinns. It is the least expensive way to go, but not as good as drum or disc for sure.
SB
 

Clintzr2

New Member
Oct 25, 2009
4
0
0
South Boston, Virginia
You're right Blakenstein, there's usually a lot of work that goes unseen when most people look at something like these bikes.

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is that tube coming off of your carb with the red on it. I really love that schwinn, great choice on the tank
On the Dellorto carb the fuel line is on the left side. These carbs allow you to loosen a screw and tilt the gas line towards your tank. The first red thing you see is an inline fuel filter and the second red thing is an inline on/off valve. I picked them both up at Advance Auto in the lawnmower parts.



I like the front disc brake. Can't see it real clearly, but looks like it's drilled for heat dissapation. Did you add this to your existing front wheel, or is the whole assembly new?. I'd like to add some kind of front brake. My old Schwinn only has the stock coaster brake. Great build!
To get the disc brake I got a mountain bike front wheel that had the hub made for the rotor. I then welded a plate onto the springer fork for the caliper to bolt to. It took some figuring.



If I needed a good front brake without that much work I would likely go with a drum brake. You can buy the front wheel already assembled with a drum, and you can buy the bracket to clamp to a springer fork. If you're running a standard fork you may or may not be able to find the bracket, but you should be able to make one fairly easily.

Or like Silverbear said, calipers bolt right onto the hole in the fork, and while they aren't very powerful, they are better than a coaster brake alone.
 
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