We finally agree on something.
I can't imagine what could happen to your crank and wrist pin bearing damage. I can kinda see it being used in a 4 stroker but not a HT motor.Break in secrets
- Thread starter wayne z
- Start date
I can't imagine what could happen to your crank and wrist pin bearing damage. I can kinda see it being used in a 4 stroker but not a HT motor.
Your right......I imagine it would be torturous on the bearings and from all the troubles I have seen over the years with cheap china bearings....they sure don't need any help wearing out prematurely!LOLWe finally agree on something.
Thanks for diggin my plane. Truth be told...I have had a few spectacular crashes where the ground jumped up and grabbed my plane or I pulled when I should have pushed while being inverted. Thats never good when 2 feet off the ground. The brushless planes are kinda like the electric bikes today. I would have to put a baseball card in the spoke or something that makes some racket. I just love the sound of 2 stroke engines...especially when you get it to hit that sweet spot. Just puts a smile across my face while racing down the road at a blistering 30mph.
OK I have a question here again. I was breaking in the new GT5 **** engine I bought and just switched back to my old engine and bought a new piston and have to break it in again because of that. I used regular non synthetic oil for the break in because I was reading not to use synt. oil for breaking in engines but the only other oil I get here is cheap 2stroke oil that also can be used for outboards. Personally I never had problems but here the question(s):
Why not to use synthetic oil for breaking in and if, what ratio? On the bottle it says to use 50:1. Its AMS Dominator (wtf) Racing Oil.
I rather use the expensive oil.
Thank you
Why not to use synthetic oil for breaking in and if, what ratio? On the bottle it says to use 50:1. Its AMS Dominator (wtf) Racing Oil.
I rather use the expensive oil.
Thank you
when i change the wrist pin needle bearing is there a problem with me red greasing it before i put it back in?
Wow you people are confusing me.
Use Dino oil only for air cooled break in. Trouble is only old school TC-W oil I see is Briggs and Stratton oil.
Earlier someone said use Wallyworld Supertech, but that says TC-W3, which is outboard oil.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-TC-W3-Outboard-2-Cycle-Oil-1-Gallon/16795065
What I have now is Valvoline Multi Purpouse TC-W3 with the NMMA cert= Outboard oil!
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/2_stroke_multipurpose.pdf
It goes to JASO FC standard, which is what my engine kit owners manual says is the
standard needed for my bike.
Valvoline also makes a 2 stroke motorcycle oil, but eveyone says they have it, untill I get there and they don't have it in stock!!!!
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/2_stroke_motorcycle.pdf
I would prefer using this oil.
I also found this page. Very Interesting, but 126 dollas a gallon!!! LOL!!
http://www.exhaustgas.com/PDF/1778.pdf
They say, and they're usage is for snowmobiles, that the high volativity of the additives in synthetics cause glazing of the cylinder wall after 3000 miles or so, loss of compression.
And that petrolem based oils are better protective, but might loose coating ability at high revs....... that's why I wanted to find the Valvoline 2 Cycle BIKE oil.
So now am I nuts?
Valvoline GP oil is Petroleum Based and all I will ever need?? If that is what I'm after it's Petroleum based with decent additives. It matches what my manufacturer states as THE oil to use.
Lol should I go mad scientist and mix GP oil with a synthetic 50/50??
Oh and to add more confusion, I shot some Ballitoil into my motor while i was cleaning out some rust flakes that had flaked into the engine. Did pre run inspection of cylinder. Good thing too it was filthy!! So now I have a Ballistoil top coat for starters.
I am thinking 20:1 for break in, perhaps 24:1. Not sure. I plan on using the
under load plug chopping to seat the ring. Going along at medium speed than hittin throttle for a little. The walls of the cylinder look very
smooth, I was expecting the old school look, nitrided iron and soft polish look. The cylinder bore was very shiny and looked plated in the China girl. It looked very smooth already. Hand cranking it over with plug out and Ballistoil in. It spun around very nice and smoothly!!
Nother dumb question, going up to high speed and down, cut the throttle fully and let it come down. Or bring the throttle down slowly to mid to low, then up incrementally. Gentle or mad twisting?
I have read so much stuff I have confuzed myself!!
Oh and my theory on the Ballitoil is it is a mineral oil, won't dry off like WD40, so all I've done is eqivalent to pouring a little 2 cycle oil into the plug hole before firing it up to pre lube the walls while waiting for mixture to arrive from the new plumbing.
Ok I'll wait for some answers.
Use Dino oil only for air cooled break in. Trouble is only old school TC-W oil I see is Briggs and Stratton oil.
Earlier someone said use Wallyworld Supertech, but that says TC-W3, which is outboard oil.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-TC-W3-Outboard-2-Cycle-Oil-1-Gallon/16795065
What I have now is Valvoline Multi Purpouse TC-W3 with the NMMA cert= Outboard oil!
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/2_stroke_multipurpose.pdf
It goes to JASO FC standard, which is what my engine kit owners manual says is the
standard needed for my bike.
Valvoline also makes a 2 stroke motorcycle oil, but eveyone says they have it, untill I get there and they don't have it in stock!!!!
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/2_stroke_motorcycle.pdf
I would prefer using this oil.
I also found this page. Very Interesting, but 126 dollas a gallon!!! LOL!!
http://www.exhaustgas.com/PDF/1778.pdf
They say, and they're usage is for snowmobiles, that the high volativity of the additives in synthetics cause glazing of the cylinder wall after 3000 miles or so, loss of compression.
And that petrolem based oils are better protective, but might loose coating ability at high revs....... that's why I wanted to find the Valvoline 2 Cycle BIKE oil.
So now am I nuts?
Valvoline GP oil is Petroleum Based and all I will ever need?? If that is what I'm after it's Petroleum based with decent additives. It matches what my manufacturer states as THE oil to use. Lol should I go mad scientist and mix GP oil with a synthetic 50/50??
Oh and to add more confusion, I shot some Ballitoil into my motor while i was cleaning out some rust flakes that had flaked into the engine. Did pre run inspection of cylinder. Good thing too it was filthy!! So now I have a Ballistoil top coat for starters.
I am thinking 20:1 for break in, perhaps 24:1. Not sure. I plan on using the
under load plug chopping to seat the ring. Going along at medium speed than hittin throttle for a little. The walls of the cylinder look very
smooth, I was expecting the old school look, nitrided iron and soft polish look. The cylinder bore was very shiny and looked plated in the China girl. It looked very smooth already. Hand cranking it over with plug out and Ballistoil in. It spun around very nice and smoothly!!
Nother dumb question, going up to high speed and down, cut the throttle fully and let it come down. Or bring the throttle down slowly to mid to low, then up incrementally. Gentle or mad twisting?
I have read so much stuff I have confuzed myself!!
Oh and my theory on the Ballitoil is it is a mineral oil, won't dry off like WD40, so all I've done is eqivalent to pouring a little 2 cycle oil into the plug hole before firing it up to pre lube the walls while waiting for mixture to arrive from the new plumbing.
Ok I'll wait for some answers.
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