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Old 08-08-2009, 12:11 PM
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Junster Junster is offline
Motorized Bicycle Elite Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Washington St.
Posts: 446
Default Re: ready to build, looking for last minute advice

Ok I'm going to ramble a bit here but I do all this on a build. The more you do before you ride the more riding and less fixing you'll do afterwards.

The first thing I do after I order the motor is place a second order to Sick Bike Parts. I order a motor hardware kit, tank petcock, teflon clutch cable, carb o-ring. The hardware kit comes with everything you need to replace the chinese fasteners. The stock ones are very soft and easy to break. The price for all of them at a hardware store is almost the same if you can find them all. The stock tank petcocks are poor quality. The new one will last thru 10 bikes and never leak. The new clutch cable is stronger and pulls alot easier. Carry the original as a spare. Get some double sided (sticky both sides) foam tape. Use it under the gas tank to pad it and keep from needing to tighten the tank mounts to much. If you tighten them up tight the tank will eventually start leaking at the studs. Use nylock nuts on the tank mounts. Use the foam tape under the CDI too. You should also replace the acorn nuts on the head with good ones. Be careful not to disturb the cylinder base gasket. While the head if off it's a good idea to lap the bottom of the head with some wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of glass to get it really flat. Re-torque at 12 ft. pounds for 8mm studs, 9-10 for 6mm. Use some gasket paper to make a good intake gasket and toss the stock one. Unscrew the motor clutch cable mount and use a grease injector tip or a screwdriver and push some grease down into that hole. It goes right to the clutch spring. Put a dab of grease on the gears on the right side of the motor under the cover but not to much. Replace the stock plug wire and the plug. I use a NGK b7hs but there are many choices. The plug wire just unscrews from the CDI. I've tried mounting the motor with padding and without. I get alot less viberation with no padding. If the motor mounts need padding to fit use Aluminum or Lead. Take your time with the rear sprocket mounting. If you don't think you'll use a shift kit then consider getting a sprocket mount and sprocket from Maniac Mechanic. As far as bikes go Mt. Bikes make way easier builds. They usually have better brakes and stronger wheels. Esp. if you buy a bike shop bike not a dept store one. Consider Craigslist for a bike. If you really search you can find a 300-500 bike for about 100. Make sure the frame is the right size for you if you want a comfortable safe ride. If the bike has fenders remove them. Fenders are dangerous on a motored bike. A bike with a front shock really helps. The right tires help too. I like Servas Survivors but there are many choices there too. Alot of this depends on what you want the bike for. If this is just a novelty your going to ride 8-10 times then it sees the garage then this is overkill. I ride 50 to 150 miles every week. The best bang for your buck as far as power upgrades go is a expansion chamber. I've have good luck with the big slanthead motors from Zoombicycles. I hope you have as much fun with this as I do.

If you use a tensioner then what Venice said about locking it in place is very important. If you can use a aluminum spacer behind the rear motor mount to adjust the chain tension and don't use the wheel tensioner.
Put something FUN between your legs..

Last edited by Junster; 08-08-2009 at 12:18 PM.
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