Re: Broken Engine Stud & Repair
I'll keep your repair in mind, it looks like it will work. As far as your rubber motor mount I'm a firm believer in a damper system on my MB. Its the reverberation I don't want cycled back into the engine and want dissipated as quickly as possible. Sure it goes down into the frame but its the metal to metal is whats bad. If it was detrimental to car engines they wouldn't have motor mounts cast in rubber.
To make my point I burn firewood in my woodstove, I use an eight pound maul with a wood handle to split the wood. Someone once gave me an eight pound maul with a 3/4" pipe welded on the end because they were always overstriking the wood when splitting it thus breaking the handle. After using it for fifteen minutes I gave it back to them.
The shock with this handle on it was tremendous and more than I could bear. It all came back to me. The difference with the wood handle and metal was night and day. The shock with the wood handle went right into it and died there.
It all depends on what your using and how much of it and how well its anchored. Looks like ya got an awful big chunk of it there, I'd be leary with that much. I don't actually use rubber but if I did it would be something such as the material used to mate the sprocket to wheel that comes with these motorized bicycle engine kits but much thinner.
What I use is an old plastic dish rack drain. The ones you put your dish rack on in the kitchen sink to catch the water while the dishes dry. The one I have is actually about 3/16 " thick is kinda rubbery but doesn't squish down like soft rubber would. If you could find some thin hard rubber that would probably do it. I also like the stuff I use because it takes up the void where there is no contact between the frame and mount.
Was the front fork on your ride an "add on" feature or did it come that way?