I'm getting ready to make the "plunge". Going to go out tomorrow and look for a used bike. I live in hilly country. Do you recommend a single speed bike or multi-speed if used with a 66 cc engine? You can't "pull" these hills with a single speed bike and it is a real effort to do so with my 7 speed.
Single speed or multi-speed bike
- Thread starter ut1205
- Start date
floridaboy
Member
Alot depends on your weight. If you are light you can use a smaller back sprocket. If you are a heaver person you will need a larger sprocket. Asfar as the type of bike you can use a coaster bike and have a single speed. If you want to be able to change speeds you will want a bike with gears. Then you can use what is called a jack shaft and be able to use the gears. I hope this helps you decide.
I weigh 180 lbs. I have a Currie 24 volt electric mountain bike with a 7 speed and have to assist the electric motor on steep hills. Does the gas engine have more or less torque than the electric motor? I don't have a problem with "assisting" the motor but I don't want to buy a gas kit and a single speed bike and have to "walk" it up the hills when if I had had a 7 speed or greater I could ride.
floridaboy
Member
I do not know anything about electric bike engines. I would think that a gas engine would have more torque. I have read on some of the post of people useing up to a 52T sprocket in some places that have steep slopes. When i said you could use a bike with gears and a jack shaft the jack shaft lets you use the gears the bike has. You can read about that set up at the Sick Bike Parts site.
ut1205,
Welcome to the forum. You've come to the right place for answers and suggestions. If you don't mind a cheaper department store, Chinese made cruiser may I suggest you look at the Schwinn Jaguar or it's clone the South Port (same bike, different color scheme) They are a cruiser style frames and both feature a 7 speed cluster with a twist grip shifter. As was suggested by Floridaboy, and you have the $, there is an optional shift kit available which will allow you to use the bike's gears to enhance the pulling power of the engine. Let us know what you decide and good luck. We're here when the time comes for further help.
Tom
Welcome to the forum. You've come to the right place for answers and suggestions. If you don't mind a cheaper department store, Chinese made cruiser may I suggest you look at the Schwinn Jaguar or it's clone the South Port (same bike, different color scheme) They are a cruiser style frames and both feature a 7 speed cluster with a twist grip shifter. As was suggested by Floridaboy, and you have the $, there is an optional shift kit available which will allow you to use the bike's gears to enhance the pulling power of the engine. Let us know what you decide and good luck. We're here when the time comes for further help.
Tom
Cabinfever1977
New Member
the gas engines have a lot more torque than most electric bikes,thats why we build them. if you use a large enough rear sprocket,you wont have to peddal at all up hills.
Guess I will have to buy a bicycle. I've been to all the thrift shops and a couple of yard sales and didn't find anything worth having. In fact only found one bike and it was a mountain bike that appeared to have been left outside with no cover for about 10 years and they wanted $40.00 for it. Only thing that kept it standing was termites holding hands. Got another suggestion to check Pawn shops. May do that next week. Thanks for all the replies. All of you have been a big help.
old motorbike
New Member
Try Craigs List or a police auction. I just sold my first build with a shift kit, and I loved it even here on flat ground. I think if you have hills steep enough that can't be pedaled up, you could use a shift kit (unless it's illegal) in your state.
Nashville Kat
Well-Known Member
The one thing that's never mentioned- the derailleur on a multispeed bike acts like the chain tensioner otherwise- it adjusts the pedal chain and if there are no allignment probles otherwise- the motor chain tensioner can then be eliminated-
I recommend the Micargi mult-speed Pantera cruiser- the rear motor sprocket holes fit right on them with no altering, and a ridge stops the sprocket an eight of an inch from the spokes- there's no need even for the rubber then on that side. It's like they're made for the motor and sprocket otherwise- a trackkie flip/flop "fixie" hub is the same way, but may need to be spaced for a multi-speed freewheel, if a single freewheel isn't used. The track cog lockring is reversed threaded I believe and should hold the sprocket firm laterally at least- forward drive is then still needed- i'm hoping to drill a sprocket to fit directkly on a flip/flop rear hub.
A dual brake lever then is desirable on any bike with handbrakes, and works very well, and I personally like handbrakes, and don't want to alter sprockets for coaster hubs
Peadal assist may help on big hills, I like to pedal a bigger gear down from a faster motor driven speed, or shut the motor off to cool and save gas on long descents- not pressing fast all the time. I'm pushing close to 200 pounds, and my 36 is bogging down a little bit on the really steep hills here in Brown County IN, Hilly Hundred country- but still getting up them, and I expect to riding mostly on the flat soon,
and the 36 gives a good cruise speed-
a 40 tooth may be a compromise down from 44, and I've seen them at "Livefast motors" on ebay, in their upgrade kit-
I recommend the Micargi mult-speed Pantera cruiser- the rear motor sprocket holes fit right on them with no altering, and a ridge stops the sprocket an eight of an inch from the spokes- there's no need even for the rubber then on that side. It's like they're made for the motor and sprocket otherwise- a trackkie flip/flop "fixie" hub is the same way, but may need to be spaced for a multi-speed freewheel, if a single freewheel isn't used. The track cog lockring is reversed threaded I believe and should hold the sprocket firm laterally at least- forward drive is then still needed- i'm hoping to drill a sprocket to fit directkly on a flip/flop rear hub.
A dual brake lever then is desirable on any bike with handbrakes, and works very well, and I personally like handbrakes, and don't want to alter sprockets for coaster hubs
Peadal assist may help on big hills, I like to pedal a bigger gear down from a faster motor driven speed, or shut the motor off to cool and save gas on long descents- not pressing fast all the time. I'm pushing close to 200 pounds, and my 36 is bogging down a little bit on the really steep hills here in Brown County IN, Hilly Hundred country- but still getting up them, and I expect to riding mostly on the flat soon,
and the 36 gives a good cruise speed-
a 40 tooth may be a compromise down from 44, and I've seen them at "Livefast motors" on ebay, in their upgrade kit-
Bikeguy Joe
Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Care to elaborate? Do you mean pedal a generator set up with it?
Norco John
New Member
I'd go with the police auction. My local Craigslist has people who must think there's gold under all that rust and dirt on the Huffys and Schwinns they ask $80+ for.
Amazing!
No contest. Multi-speed is obvious choice and if you decide later you don't like it for some bizzare reason just remove the derailleur.
I started out with electric and determined they were almost useless for my purpose in terms of hills and range. Nice and quiet though. Nothing beats a gas engine for getting from one place to another with minimum fuss and maximum speed.
You can get very good bikes at Walmart and Target for under $100 (free shipping/pickup). I wouldn't stick my nose up at rusty frames though. Only takes a little elbow grease and maybe $5-$10 in parts to fix them up.
grouchyolfart
New Member
Your Curry setup, is it a hub motor?
I ride a Huffy step through. Okay, it's a girlie bike, but I get stiff at my age and can't get that leg over sometimes.
Anyway, it's got 7 speeds and a 24 volt Curry 450 Watt geared motor on the rear wheel. I have to ride up a couple of pretty good hills on my r/t to work and back and this helps get my 200+ lb. weight up those hills without killing me. Only drawback with these things is if you can pedal faster than 20 mph, the motor won't kick in. Something I can live with, though. I'm not in any hurry. 
I ride a Huffy step through. Okay, it's a girlie bike, but I get stiff at my age and can't get that leg over sometimes.
Anyway, it's got 7 speeds and a 24 volt Curry 450 Watt geared motor on the rear wheel. I have to ride up a couple of pretty good hills on my r/t to work and back and this helps get my 200+ lb. weight up those hills without killing me. Only drawback with these things is if you can pedal faster than 20 mph, the motor won't kick in. Something I can live with, though. I'm not in any hurry. My Currie is not a hub motor. It is an E-Zip that I purchased from Amazon. I have about 125 miles on it and I have been totally satisfied. I have hills in my neighborhood that I would not expect the Currie to climb but it does with my help. Only problem I have is that I am limited to about 6 miles before I have to head home for a charge. I figure with a gas bike I could ride until I run out of gas. I'm not that concerned with speed. 18-20 miles per hour on my Currie is fine. I just want extended range and the power to climb hills. I'm not as young as I used to be either.
grouchyolfart
New Member
Okay. I hear you on the distance. My commute is only a 4 mile r/t and I usually have plenty left for running errands around our small town. All the shopping is within 1/2 mile from home. Yeah, I know I could walk and get the excercise, but I like flaunting my "alternative" ride.
I guess, for me, the electric is plenty enough for my needs. My DAX bike is going to be for cruising with the boyz on their island runs.
I still keep my Dayang 4 stroke scooter for rainy days.
floridaboy
Member
The jack shaft takes the chain drive from the engine and drives a shaft that then crosses over to the right side and then drives down to you frount sprocket useing a second sprocket which then can drive through the chain drive you now have on the bike.
There is a part that you install in the crank that keeps it from turning while the engine is driveing it. Other words you can still peddle your bike to ride it or start engine but after you are useing the engine your peddles will not be turning. Hope this helps i put this the best i can.
There is a part that you install in the crank that keeps it from turning while the engine is driveing it. Other words you can still peddle your bike to ride it or start engine but after you are useing the engine your peddles will not be turning. Hope this helps i put this the best i can.