chain tension help

paul

paul

Well-Known Member
is their someway to make the chain tighter like a single link available? i am using the chain tensioner but have to have it all the way up for it to keep the chain snug. i tried to remove another link but then it was to short by just a pinch. my thoughts are the straighter the line from the sprocket to the engine the better it will be.
 
(c)Cruiser, one thing you may try is to add a master link to the regular bicycle chain which will allow you to move the wheel back, allowing you some adjustment on the motor chain. Also you can try to adjust the location of the tensioner, closer to back wheel or closer to the motor. I had the same problem on my chain.
 
thanks red. my drops go straight down and i thought of that also, i have the tensioner as close as i can get it to the sprocket already. i will keep messing with it though. i think the only alternative is to remount the engine which i really do not want to do
 
where would i get a half link pete? that would solve all my problems. i looked on ebay and they had for size 10 and 40 i but could find nothing for a 415
 
Sometimes it helps to slide the entire chain tensioner assembly rearward (closer to the rear sprocket) often times this will take care of minor chain tension issues without the need for
messing with the links.....since the stays typically taper towards the rear axle, sometimes I the brackets may need minor "adjusting"....Helps to have a large pipe wrech, vise, and/or large hammer....just be careful if you have to "tweak" things.

Andrew
 
OOPs....just noticed you already said the tensioner was as far back as possible...Hmmm...
Oh....actually, seems like you could add another link or two and just lower the tensioner
guide wheel Possibly in conjunction with moving the tensioner forward or backward)?....You seem to be too close for it not to work.....Maybe a pic would be helpful?

Andrew
 
here you go. i think a straighter line from the tensioner to the motor would make a lot of diference in the performance. maybe i am wrong but would like to see
 

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i have tried. even with tensioner off the bike i cannot remove a link. it makes chain just a hair short. that is why i am going to try a half link
 
Hmmmm....In answer to your question, yes, a good straight chainline is important (in some of my builds it was necessary to bend the idler bracket inwards or outwards depending on where on the rear wheel stay the tensioner bracket was ultimately mounted...not easy buy doable with the right tools)....To save $$ it would be easiest to simply remove enough links and then lower the idler wheel accordingly....If the entire bracket needs to be moved you can always bend the upright so that the chainline remains in proper alignment.
Andrew
 
You posted a reply before I got mine in! ;-0 ......The chain being a little short shouldn't be too much of a problem...can't you just lower the idler?
 
the way it is now is the shortest i can make the chain and it still fit with or with out the chain idler. i have tried everything. i think the only cure is the half link. the picture is deceiving the engine sprocket is level with the top of the wheel sprocket so of course with the rear sprocket being bigger the chain needs to head upwards. if i were to do it again i would make both sprockets as close to center of each other as possible.
 
i ordered a half link. will let you all know if they are worth it. hopefully it will be in next week.
 
HI Cruiser, I only just saw this post I have a time seeing the little handle on the mailbag.

Take a little piece of aluminum and cut it in the shape of a T-Shirt. Loosen the rear motormount, and slip it in-between the engine and the sliding mout.

The shim will equal twice it's thickness in chain slack takup.

I've done this for years, works brilliantly!

If I've not been clear, ask away.

Mike
 
cool i will try that. thanks mike. ordered the half link but wasnt crazy about using it because most say they had problems with it. will let you know how it works
 
Thats a great bit of advice I had the same problem it's why i couldn't get both chains to tighten without a tensioner. Im going to remember that the next time I have to pull the chain off of either side.
 
I will have to take a link out of the bicycle chain to tighten it, then use your spacer to tighten the motor chain but it is absolutely doable. I will get that spacer off the bike and make it look a lot better.

thanks Mike
 
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