Thread: New Project
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Old 06-29-2016, 09:04 PM
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Tony01 Tony01 is offline
Motorized Bicycle Elite Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 613
Default Re: New Project

JUST DO IT!! I can do it, all the ppl in this thread can do it, and soon you will too.

First thing you need is spoke length and gauge. I've never seen an Atom hub up close but they're likely made for thicker spokes. You can buy cheap thick spokes from husky bicycles. Also you can get Sapim 13g stainless spokes which are very strong and use washers with them, but might as well go with 12 or 11g right away. To find the right length you'll need to accurately measure the hub Spoke Hole Circle Diameter/Bolt Circle Diameter center to center of the holes, and the flange separation center to center. Try to get this within 1mm or less- best to get it as accurate as possible. Then you'll need the Effective Rim Diameter or ERD and this is the diameter of the rim where the nipples seat. You can easily just measure the inside diameter of the rim and add the thickness of the rims or spoke hole eyelets or whatever will make it bigger (times 2, for both sides). Find a free spoke calculator online; I've used the one on the DTSwiss website and also some other one on another site. Input the Flange Separation, BCD, ERD, and 3-cross, put nipple length as whatever the supplier says they come with (usually 12 or 16mm) and you'll usually get a number like 270mm for regular MTB rims and hubs down to around 220mm or so for very large bicycle drum hubs. My rear hub has a 70mm drum brake and came out to 240mm spokes for 26" wheel with 48 spokes. Usually it falls between two sizes and if you go with the shorter size you might need longer nipples (i.e. 16mm vs standard 12mm) or if you go with longer you might need to grind the spokes off with a grinder after lacing and truing the wheel to prevent getting a hole in your tube.

BEST TIP: for standard 3 cross lacing which is 95% of what you'll do with bicycles just remember this for every spoke crossing: OVER, OVER, UNDER for external spokes or UNDER, UNDER, OVER for internal spokes. You wanna do the internal ones first cause it gets messy trying to get an internal spoke in the right spot when all the other spokes are there. Also when you are near the valve hole, make sure the spokes near it are parallel to make putting air in easier. Also it doesn't matter if you have internal or external spokes leading. I've done it both ways and haven't found a difference. I just did it whatever way I started it.

Also you can tune them by ear:

I've built maybe 25-30 wheels by now and trued up many more.. the first couple were the hardest.. heck one time my chain jumped and ate all the drive side spokes. Well I got some similar sized spokes from another wheel but they were too long. took hub and spoke length measurements and put them in a spoke calc, and found that 4-cross would work (more crosses require longer spokes.. 0 crosses is radial lacing..) so I ended up lacing the drive side 4 cross and my buddy still has the wheel with the rag joint on it no problems. Sure saved my butt that one time. I think the difference was only 8mm or so.
I don't always listen to Alice in Chains..... but when I do, SO DO THE NEIGHBORS
212cc 2-speed

Last edited by Tony01; 06-29-2016 at 09:07 PM.
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