Originally Posted by FFV8
Well Bob, since you don't seem to grasp the basic relationship of water vapor pressure vs atmospheric pressure, I believe I will take the balance of your advice with a grain of salt.
Since you are running the OEM cooling system, run it as hard as you like. That engine was made to stand in one place, running a constant full load. People cold start B&S engines & run them against the governor as soon as they can every day. A genset spins to 3600 as soon as it fires, and often gets loaded before the choke can be opened.
The splash lubricated Briggs design is pretty tough. Try to use oil with some Zinc (ZDDP) in it. Change it often. I did warranty repairs on B&S engines, and new engines left with 15W40 diesel oil in the crankcase.
Never had one come back, and some of them were mounted on snowblowers. 110v electric start at -20f & wide open throttle as soon as possible.
Sounds good. I will however let the engine warm up at least to a decent head temp before I run it hard. Hoping to get at least 1000hrs out of this motor as replacement shortblocks are getting rare.
And yeah the boiling temp vs pressure is one of the basic physics courses; thermodynamics. However this doesn't matter with a pressurized oil system... I'm not sure about how those work on motorcycles or any vehicles really but for our needs, the temp needs to be highest at sea level to boil the water, and the difference in altitudes that we'll see in day to day driving results in a negligible difference in temp. This is the same concept as Diesel engine ignition- rc Diesel engines don't even need a glow plug because the rapid increase in cylinder pressure is what ignites the charge.