Re: Cylinder Stud broken
You want to use it at the case, on the nut is optional, but at the case you got a steel stud going into an aluminum case, there's always a chance the 2 can get corrosion locked together, but the most common thing happening is that the aluminum tends to reshape it's self to the exact shape of the threads on the stud, imperfections and all so over time and several heat cycles it can for a thin film of oxide on the threads where they contact the steel stud, the stud is already torqued by the nut and strtched, then this film of oxide tries to for where there's no room to for and that's what causes the seizing. You may have noticed a white residue on the threads of a stuck stud or even on one that's not seized, most the time it's just a really thin powdery film but when it's seized, there's a lot more of this white oxide or rust from the stud, or both. The anti seize is usually a super fine aluminum, copper, or graphite powder suspended is some sort of grease so it prevents complete direct contact between the stud and the metal it's in and acts like microscopic tiny bearings when breaking torque and running the bolts or studs out of the metal.
The stud can't come loose or out of the case with the anti seize applied to it due to the stretching it takes from being torqued, and this thin oxide film can't for as easily on either part since there's this ultra thin barrier between the 2. This solid barrier can't escape from between the threads so if you try to break torque 20 years later it'll break free just as easily as if you torqued it yesterday.
you can usually get a small tube of anti seize at most auto parts stores where they sell the sealants and engine building supplies and sometimes in the same areas where they sell ignition components since it's also recommended on spark plugs in aluminum heads. The stuff is cheap and it just takes a really thin coat to work.