Re: New Worksman Drum Brake Hub - No Stopping Power
When I had my worksman drum, I had to adjust it to where the shoes stopped just short of contacting the drum without pulling the lever. But it stopped me plenty good. It was an older hub, when I got it it had been sitting in some guys shed for quite a few years. It would lock the wheel so hard, I ended up taking a couple spills in the rain while making sudden stops. I traded that wheel and the rear wheel I was using to a buddy, he is using the drum wheel on another bike and says it still stops plenty good for him too. Maybe the newer worksman drums just suck. I'm using a monster 130mm front drum for my current project, on a 24" heel and I'm expecting it to have stopping power comparable to discs. One thing I don't care for about bicycle drums is how the brake arm and cam are one piece, making it impossible to adjust the position of the brake arm. My rear moped drum is the same way, but I figure it's not that big of a deal because it's the rear brake and most of your stopping power comes from your front brake anyway. The motorcycle drum has a splined brake arm, so you can adjust it, another member here recently advised that the brake arm should be just before 90 degrees when the shoes make contact with the drum, and I have adjusted my front brake arm to this position. Unfortunately, this cannot be done with bicycle drums or some moped drums. But once broken in and properly adjusted, a bicycle drum should stop reasonably well up to 30mph. My top speed on my last bike was 32 and I only had trouble stopping when my brake needed adjusting. And I didn't have a rear brake on that bike. It was a shimano cb110 hub (genuine, not a clone), and I had it properly adjusted and well lubricated using red and tacky grease, but the shoes would grab so hard I would fishtail down the the road with even a slight backwards push on the pedals. So I converted the rear hub to freewheel and never did add another brake.