Originally Posted by crassius
never seen one of these, so don't know if leading/trailing shoes are important with the installation of them, but in motorcycle brakes the most important thing is to get all cable pull mechanisms square to the force - this means that the lever at the brake should be adjusted on the splines to be just before 90 degrees at time shoes hit the drum to give maximum force on shortest pull - I've seen getting this right make 5 times greater force applied to the shoes
I used to have a worksman drum, and there were no splines on the cam, in fact near as I could tell the cam and arm were one piece. However, your info is still helpful for drums that do have adjustable arms, such as the Yamaha drum I'm using on my current front wheel. My best suggestions for the op are to lightly sand the drum and shoes and wipe with rubbing alcohol after sanding. This helps speed up the break-in process and also helps prevent glazing. Also, those short levers do no give enough pull for drums no matter how hard you pull. How far the lever sticks out from the handlebar is important, but the length is also important as a longer lever gives more leverage and thus better pull. Trust me, I tried to use short levers on my worksman drum at first and went through the same thing as the op. I switched to a longer lever with more angle and the brake worked much better. But sanding the shoes and drum lightly also helps.