Need a lil help here

Yea I informed the E-bay seller last night that the CDI unit was bad and that I needed a replacement sent out as soon as possible. I don't know how but I actually got a 24 month warranty with my engine from the seller, Have not heard that from any one else on here.
 
Dear friend,
Thank you so much for your email regarding your concern. We are so sorry for the delay reply and all the inconvenience caused to you. Please do not worry about that. We have sent the replacement out for you and here is the tracking number # 9400110200793190886723 Electronic information received on the 16th
https://tools.usps.com/go/TrackConfirmAction!input.action
We will keep tracking the package till it is delivered. And if there is anything you concern or request, please feel free to contact us.
Best regards!

- fivestarsseller
 
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CDI Unit arrived in the mail 10:45 am this morning had the back tire fixed by 2:00 went to my appointment on it's first ride. It did great, **Can't get it to idle just yet thinking it will once it's more broken in. ** I hope lol
Every time I come to a red light or stop sign and pull the lever in and it stalls, In order to idle I must throttle it.
 
Nghtrider62 said:
CDI Unit arrived in the mail 10:45 am this morning had the back tire fixed by 2:00 went to my appointment on it's first ride. It did great, **Can't get it to idle just yet thinking it will once it's more broken in. ** I hope lol
Every time I come to a red light or stop sign and pull the lever in and it stalls, In order to idle I must throttle it.
Click to expand...
Have you tried adjusting the idle speed screw? Turn it clockwise to increase idle speed, counter clockwise to decrease it.

If the idle is still too slow with the screw adjusted in, clockwise, it's possible your clutch cable is too loose and not disengageing the clutch completely when you come to a stop.

If you lift the rear wheel off the ground and squeeze the clutch lever the wheel shouldn't spin with the engine running. If it does the clutch is dragging and that will cause your engine to stall at idle with the bike stopped. You'll need to take the slack out of the cable.

Tom
 
brnotI will check the Clutch cable for that idea. Thank you.
biggest problem with this frame is it's 1.225 diameter thick 1974 21" Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo Mountain Bike, was thinking of Powder coating it satin black and having the Brand and maker in sliver leaf. I already have 3 friends who want me to help them get motors for there bikes lol. And yes I have referred them to https://www.facebook.com/groups/359870172131/ and the Internet site. The people here and their have helped me alot and I thank you all. brnot
 
2 1/4 turns on the idle screw inward, also the float bowl screw at the bottom of the carb was loose. Saw a small puddle of gas under the carb which made me look why in the first place.
Cleaned the back rim off from the cast away Liquid wrench Improved Chain and cable lube I sprayed on the chain before going anywhere, and the lower rear bar with the chain tightener is on. Checked chain tension, and re-checked all bolts and screws for looseness
All Good to go. Thank you 2Door for the thoughts. They've Helped.
 
You're welcome and we hope you enjoy your bike. That's the reason this forum is here.
Ride careful and have fun. Let us know if we can help with any future problems.

Tom
 
Geez sorry about the problems your having. First thing I did when building my bike was take the wheels off, removed tires and inner tubes and took the hubs apart. Glad I did too, both wheel hub bearings were dry. Total failure if I had tried to ride it. Next I checked every single spoke nut for sharp edges that may puncture an inner tube on both wheels. Next I installed rim strips rubber 2 each for each wheel then masking tape on top of that to cover the spoke nuts. Then I installed the tires on the rims. Next installed those plastic puncture liners you can get. Then installed the inner tube. Inflated slowly. Oh I replaced the rear tire with a Kevlar reinforced tire. Got on Ebay bought 2 but decided to change just the back one. Now I have a spare tire for the front and rear. On the engine problem, yeah been there. I had a screw break off. At that moment I decided to replace every single bolt on the engine with stainless steel hex sockets. Still replacing them, not looking forward to taking one cover off I'm afraid those aluminum screws are in so tight they will strip out or break like the first one that failed. Also get some real steel and make a decent muffler strap for your engine, the stock one is a joke I wouldn't use it to hold a roll of toilet paper :( lolol. :-||
 

My China Girl Complete, I will add a new carb and long muffler next month. I did add a Racing CDI unit from E-bay from netsharpshooter Great Quality work!!


And Ordered a Bike Berry mag, I was actually surprised by the heavier wires on it and all the connections had heat shrink tubing so no exposed wires.Almost had to shoe horn it in, there's very little gap in the magneto unlike with the stock unit.But the shipping bag was thin flimsy and not bubble insulated.I also disconnected the kill switch so I won't have to worry about the kill switch killing the nagneto I've got a couple of Black Motorcycle bicycle rear view mirrors coming, And added a cree 5000 lums double headlight for better visibility at night. It's a lot smaller then I expected but Way more Powerful then Night Rider Products.

And will post pics as I update the rest of the bike.
 
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I tried heating the muffler pipe with a benzamatic torch to bend it. I think it is working, but need to keep returning to do more. Very tedious on and off. I'm going to bolt it to a post in the garden, heat the arch of the pipe and hopefully get an inch or two. I'm a little concerned about my first attempt, as I placed the flange in a vice and the bottom lip curled a touch. My hopes are the gasket will compensate this potential foul up. If I need a new muffler, what is best for best sound and quiet?
 
Hoofbeats64 said:
I tried heating the muffler pipe with a benzamatic torch to bend it. I think it is working, but need to keep returning to do more. Very tedious on and off. I'm going to bolt it to a post in the garden, heat the arch of the pipe and hopefully get an inch or two. I'm a little concerned about my first attempt, as I placed the flange in a vice and the bottom lip curled a touch. My hopes are the gasket will compensate this potential foul up. If I need a new muffler, what is best for best sound and quiet?
Click to expand...
https://bicyclemotorworks.com/product/expansion-chamber-exhaust-muffler/ or the standard I think bike berry has a good selection too
 
I was having a blast cruising around on the new cruiser, UNTIL - my bbr tuning one inch sprocket adapter has slipped enough that it broke a spoke and bent 2 others. Made it home safe but noticed wobble in wheel. I'm not going to ride until I fix the wheel. I've heard talk of shims, old bike tubes, spark plug feelers, coke can shims, washers, etc. to make your own spacer... Can anyone recommend what they may feel is best for this situation to shim up? Seems like this is the weak and critical point in my build. Would like to make it safe and secure without question.
 
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