I too purchased the Monark fork setup off of ebay last week, and it does require much tweeking to make it right. My head tube length was perfect for this fork but a shorter head tube length will push the front springer of the fork down causing a higher front end. I also ended up spreading the fork legs to get the front hub to fit. Yesterday, I purchased an old 1950 Firestone (Monark) lady's bike that came with the factory Monark fork. I found the reason for the front fork to hub issue on the aftermarket fork is that they added two washers per pivot which takes away about 1/2 inch of width. The factory fork uses no washers and had no signs of wear.
I also found a used wheelset that has the sturmey archer drum brakes, how did you mount the drum brake arm to the fork?
Originally Posted by tyrslider
The monark forks are nice but mine took several hours to get right. There is no lower crown race, the steering tube is too long for my frame and not threaded far enough to cut it down, they were not straight i.e. needed tuning and pivots needed reconfiguration. All and all not a bolt on replacement.
The Sturmey-Archer hub is really nice and will mount right up to the girder. A bit more finiky w/ the springer though. The Sturmey-Archer hubs are my favorite front brake because they are very linear, they stop you fast w/o ever locking up. I stock those hubs and can hand build you a wheel w/ 11 gauge spokes and match your rim or use your existing front rim and save you some duckets.