Thank you, Paul. I did plan a lot of it before I started, but a few things were decided either by necessity or readily available materials. It turned out better than expected, though.
I had a mechanical failure tonight, partly my own fault. The grooves were a little too pronounced in the clutch bell, and two of the "teeth" broke clean off on my way home. Luckily, I was close enough to limp it home under a feathered throttle and pedal assist; with no grave damage to my tire.
I decided this was a good time to cut the clutch collar nut from the assembly and try a new drive wheel. Still no reverse nuts to be found around here, so I was already thinking ahead on it.
Using one of the pegs removed from the back tire at the moment, just for simplicity's sake. (I also cut some oak roller blanks with a center drill hole saw in anticipation of this, but I'll wait to finish them until successfully testing a peg.) I used a cutting wheel to separate the nut from the clutch pivots, and make an octagon (stop sign) shape from the diamond-shaped collar plate surrounding it. This locks in flush and center with the peg, and attaches just the same as it used to. There is a tight fit washer between the back of the peg and the shaft to prevent slip and wobble. No play in them whatsoever. Pleasantly surprised how well the concept turned out. Might just leave it this way and start on an assortment of pegs... After a short test run, I realize now how much power I was losing with the smaller surface area of the clutch bell. I wish I would have just done this in the first place. However, I didn't want to chop it down until absolutely necessary. Night and day difference now- in the best way.
I was too caught up in the bike being sans engine to think about taking a pic, but I'll try to get one of the fastener inside the tube. Kicking myself for that one. I'm sure someone else has had this problem, so maybe the idea will be of use to others with no other option.