Pull starting a chinagirl

Henshooter

Henshooter

New Member
Hey guys ,I've noticed my motor takes a minute or two to warm up before she starts running well and as such it's a pain in the tookus to start her up and let her sit for 5 mins before heading out ( she isn't hard to start but the riding down the road and coming back for her to sit for a tic and warm up)this is where I thought a pull start would be good and have heard around you could get a pull start kit off of eBay for them

I found one on eBay for fairly cheap but was wondering If any of you guys had them fitted and if they work or am I just wasting my time on some garbage

OPINIONS.............. GO!!!!

Regards Hen
 

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That one shown is the standard pull starter. I have had several over the years, and always carried a spare in my tool kit. This one and the so called HEAVY DUTY pullstart have diffrent problems. However I've had fairly good luck.

NEVER NEVER NEVER EVER fail to have the clutch handle pulled in when trying to start or jerk the pull. Failure to do that puts too much strain on the pull start. You may get away with forgetting once, but eventually you will pay the price.

However the pullstart will not help with the problem that you mentioned.

PS: That is a good price.
 
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Although I've never used one I read almost every post that comes into the forum and from what I've seen the pull starts for the Chinese 2 strokes aren't very dependable.

Just a word of advice. If your engine is hard to start the pull start won't make it any easier. You won't have to pedal as much but you'll still have to pull to get it running. I'd look at some other options like spark plug gap, choke position, carburetor tuning and ignition system. A well tuned engine should start quickly. Yes, you might need to use the choke and the engine will run better if allowed to warm a few seconds, not five minutes, but full or half choke for ten to fifteen seconds should help.

Tom
 
Russell said:
That one shown is the standard pull starter. I have had several over the years, and always carried a spare in my tool kit. This one and the so called HEAVY DUTY pullstart have diffrent problems. However I've had fairly good luck.

NEVER NEVER NEVER EVER fail to have the clutch handle pulled in when trying to start or jerk the pull. Failure to do that puts too much strain on the pull start. You may get away with forgetting once, but eventually you will pay the price.

However the pullstart will not help with the problem that you mentioned.

PS: That is a good price.
Click to expand...
In what way won't it help?
basically I want to start my motor so it can warm up before I ride , at the moment I need to ride her up the road get her started and come back home to let her warm up for a minute on the side stand , I figured instead of riding up the street I could start her on the side stand before cruising down the road , a pull start should by rights achieve this yes?

Thanks for your input my friend

Regards Henshooter
 
2door said:
Although I've never used one I read almost every post that comes into the forum and from what I've seen the pull starts for the Chinese 2 strokes aren't very dependable.

Just a word of advice. If your engine is hard to start the pull start won't make it any easier. You won't have to pedal as much but you'll still have to pull to get it running. I'd look at some other options like spark plug gap, choke position, carburetor tuning and ignition system. A well tuned engine should start quickly. Yes, you might need to use the choke and the engine will run better if allowed to warm a few seconds, not five minutes, but full or half choke for ten to fifteen seconds should help.

Tom
Click to expand...
Ahh I see ,she isn't hard to start at all ,it's the warmup where she struggles a tiny bit , not enough to bother me so much but I need to travel 100m before she will give me full WOT , IN THE FIRST 30 seconds she's a tad shakey and I thought giving her a minute to warm up would be beneficial to the motor ,is it really worth it though ?

Cheers Tom

Regards Hen
 
Well yes, if that is the way you are thinking. However that is not my way of thinking! My way of thinking is: You should be able to start yor engine by peddeling it 20-30 ft. and letting the clutch out. If you can't do that you should find the real problem not a work around. You have been given some good advice from 2dr and that is the route I'd take. You will be much happier with an engine you can count on to start and ride off.

Please do not take any offense to anything I may have said, it is only ment to try to help!

Jim E.
 
30 seconds isn't unreasonable or unusual. You have to consider the simplicity of these little engines. They have no computer controlled ignition or carburation, no heat riser valves, no way for them to reach optimum operatating temperature except through combustion. When the cylinder, piston, rings and the rest of the internal parts reach operating temperature the engine will naturally perform better than when cold.
30 seconds of warm up time is normal. Give her a little time and she'll perform for you.

Tom
 
I have a pull start on my Softtail.
They make the engine about an inch wider on the Mag side.
So will not allow the cranks to rotate on a lot of set ups.
Then requiring wider cranks, which will then limit your lean whilst peddling.
I find my engines will 4 stroke a bit for the first little while, till they warm up.
I find the pull start a very good addition to my shift kit, as I was bending the cheap steel cranks that came with my kit, probably due to high compression motor.
I was also finding it hard to get a full revolution of the cranks due to the gearing of the shift kit and again the 150 Psi compression. I also found that that I needed two chain tentioners on the secondary chain, one for motor power, and one for starting.
I'm not sure I could be bothered with the pull start without the shift kit, as It would mean mounting the motor higher to clear the cranks on my bikes.
I have had no problems with the pull starter as yet, despite hi compression motor. But was running a Decomp valve. However found the pull start to start my motor easily even without decomp valve. Makes me a little worried though to bring my motor back up to 150 Psi now that I no longer have head with decomp.
 
Russell said:
Well yes, if that is the way you are thinking. However that is not my way of thinking! My way of thinking is: You should be able to start yor engine by peddeling it 20-30 ft. and letting the clutch out. If you can't do that you should find the real problem not a work around. You have been given some good advice from 2dr and that is the route I'd take. You will be much happier with an engine you can count on to start and ride off.

Please do not take any offense to anything I may have said, it is only ment to try to help!

Jim E.
Click to expand...

No offence taken at all Jim ,sorry if my post came back as offensive ,it was not intended to portray that at all ,I greatly appreciate the Input and value every opinion you have offered

Kindest regards Henshooter
 
I used a pullstarter for a while on my first build, it came with a steel cable instead of a nylon cord in it, the cable failed quickly so I replaced it with a piece of heavy duty small diameter rope and that solved the problem, never broke on me again, one thing that will make the pullstarter hold up better along with putting a heavy duty pull rope in like is used in chain saws and such is the technic used to pull start the engine, you should never jerk the pull starter but instead slowly pull until you fell it up on compression and then with a smooth motion pull rope to spin engine over, a hard jerk can not only break the rope but also break the small metal dawgs that engage to lock pullstarter to the engine well its pulled....

This was my experience with them and I think if they're handled right and they have a good quality rope in them they will hold up pretty good.

Map
 
A two stroke should not have to be pulled as hard and fast as you can to start it, as some old mowers do, a slow gentle pull should be all that is needed.
 
I still pulled mine over with a quick pull which would start it on first-time pull most of the time but I never jerk the rope and cause a lot of shock to the mechanics of the pull starter because that is what will break things and cause premature wear on all the small metal parts on these little pull starter, if they're handled right I think they do just fine but I think most people that have trouble with them are just to rough and try to use them as a yank starter instead of a pull starter, you are correct Theon, you cant get rough like you can with an old lanmower, just pull the rope until you feel the dawgs engage and then give it a good smooth pull at a medium speed and if the engine is tuned right it will pop off in one to two pulls in my experience.

Map
 
I hate pull starters & rest assured they will HURT YOU!!! that being said these pull starters suck if they don't rip your fingers out of the sockets . they can lock up causing your bike to come off the ground and impale your foot with the kickstand ..
this in turn caused the M/B to get thrown over the neighbors fence creating several divots in his beautiful grass and dirt in turn pissing him off as well. So as you can see...they are also bad for public relations as well I highly do not recommend them !!
 
xct2xct2
Jumpa said:
I hate pull starters & rest assured they will HURT YOU!!! that being said these pull starters suck if they don't rip your fingers out of the sockets . they can lock up causing your bike to come off the ground and impale your foot with the kickstand ..
this in turn caused the M/B to get thrown over the neighbors fence creating several divots in his beautiful grass and dirt in turn pissing him off as well. So as you can see...they are also bad for public relations as well I highly do not recommend them !!
Click to expand...

Lol...... never had and trouble like that with mine..... but yeah I'd be a little upset too.....

Good story and I can relate.

Map
laff
 
Pull start, or what is called recoil start? Don't mention those to me. I spent my afternoon working on a 1968 vintage 2 stroke Lawn-Boy mower belonging to a neighbor. The spring in the pull start broke, he found a source for parts, can you believe it, and got a new spring. He asked me if I'd install it for him. I agreed. He's a good neighbor.

I spent three hours today on that antique POS but managed to get the recoil starter working and the old mower starts and runs perfectly.

Just a note. This neighbor is not a poor man. He has some bucks. When I suggested he just buy a new mower he said he has "sentimental attachment" to the old Lawn-Boy.
Whatever... I know what he means. My Toro was a wedding present from my wife. This July it will be 28 years old. I hope I'm around when it's 46 years old. I'll probably still have it :)

Tom
 
Dude.

Your wife bought you a lawn mower for a wedding present?

What did you get her, some pots and pans?

Eh, whatever works - :)
 
In my experience, often the wealthier, the tighter.
yes recoil springs can be 'difficult'.
Another reason to pull gently on them.
 
The main reason all motors run better after they have warmed up is mainly due to the fact that pistons are not completely straight up and down the sides of the pistons. If you mic one you will find that the pistons are smaller diameter at the top than the bottom and they are made that way because heat on the top of the piston causes it to expand more than the bottom. So until they have warmed up and the pistons have expanded they loose power until proper expansion increases compression. rackemblue
 
I put a so-called "heavy duty" recoil starter on my HT and it worked great for the first 8 or 10 pulls. Then the rope broke, then the cheap plastic guide cut through to the aluminum. When I replaced the rope the spring broke. The recoil starter on my Huasheng has lasted 4 years with no problem. I wouldn't ride a MB without a pull start. There are times when a jump start is not safe.
 
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