The Combo clutch lever and brake

D

dotcom

New Member
I purchased one like the one on Bike Berry website which says some customers have found the distance traveled by the clutch arm between gear 1 and 2 to be lacking. The gear actuator can be modified internally to exclude the use of gear 2 and therefore the transition would be from gear 1 to 3, thus allowing for an additional length of pull on the clutch arm.

Does anyone know exactly how this gets done?
I could not find this info anywhere.
 

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There is a tiny pawl inside the shifter section that you remove to make it swing full travel. How you remove it depends on which combo you have. Take the top plastic cover off to expose the shifter mechanism and it should be apparent what to remove. Usually there are two tiny levers on posts that ratchet as the lever swings, then holds the cable as the lever returns for another bite(gear), then swings back to grab another gear, in a two step movement.You want it to swing back and forth freely just one stroke with no catch between gears. This gives you one unrestricted pull (1st to 2nd) with no return stop. I do not know of any way to get full 1st to 3rd travel in one stroke. It will not work on certain brands depending on internal construction. Be sure to remove ONLY the pawl that holds it for a second swing of the lever or the lever will swing without pulling on the cable. The pawls are usually held by to the posts by tiny circlips, springs, or sometimes the post unscrews for removal.
 
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The image above is the one I have. Here is an image with the plastic cover removed and the shifter mechanism. I still am not sure what is the pawl
 

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The pawls are the tiny levers that grab notches on the drum under the plastic cap with the gear markings. They probably pivot on the post with the E-clip on top where the lever swings.
 
here should be a better image. I am still not sure what is removed and how to remove it
 

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Sorry, I'm not very good at explaining things. I don't have the patience.
Work the lever slowly while you watch what happens and you will figure out how it works.
DONT take anything else apart until you get a handle on exactly what does what or you might have a useless pile of parts.
Look online for an exploded view of the innards maybe?
 
you could try shortening the clutch lever on the engine too, or drill a new hole for the cable to go through, so the cable doesn't have to move as far. It'll increase pull effort at the hand lever though.
 
maniac57 said:
The pawls are the tiny levers that grab notches on the drum under the plastic cap with the gear markings. They probably pivot on the post with the E-clip on top where the lever swings.
Click to expand...

Pawl... what a cool word I never heard of Pawl till todsay .. Except my cousin "Paul" yet he is a totally different animals

Thank you m57... 1 less "thing a ma jiggy" in my vocabulary now
 
16v4nrbrgr said:
you could try shortening the clutch lever on the engine too, or drill a new hole for the cable to go through, so the cable doesn't have to move as far. It'll increase pull effort at the hand lever though.
Click to expand...

However that increase in effort can then be reduced by using a clutch roller.

picture.php
 
im kinda following but I say if this is sold as just that, they should be prepared to elaborate about how to get it going. Ive asked them to make either a video or a blown up "blue print" showing exactly how to tune it so it is what it should be and is what it is sold as. just sayin
 
You bought it advertised as a two in one clutch and brake lever? I had no idea anyone actually marketed them aimed at motorbikers. The only one I've seen was a homemade conversion.
You got taken it seems...
 
maniac57 said:
You bought it advertised as a two in one clutch and brake lever? I had no idea anyone actually marketed them aimed at motorbikers. The only one I've seen was a homemade conversion.
You got taken it seems...
Click to expand...

yes. I bought it advertised as a two in one clutch and brake lever
combodrn2
 
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