Originally Posted by Wolfy
And you don't have to be an ass just because someone doesn't want to spend their rent money on a bike from you. If you don't want to be helpful just ignore the post in the first place instead of sticking your nose up at someone who is just learning.
I WAS trying to help you Wolfy because you are a local, I came to my conclusion of the best course of action from seeing far too may used motorized bicycles like this the last 4 years and went by what you said in your first 2 posts and offered to look it over for free.
If you want to dick with it then here ya go.
It was a used rebuild bike that was re-sold to you again.
The sad part is almost everything you see on CraigsList for sale here for $350 isn't worth $100.
If you are mechanic and want to rebuild a toy great, if you want reliable transportation they are the worst money draining frustrating thing you could buy.
The gas/oil mix was 40-45:1
Your carb fuel/air mix despite looking like it goes right into the cylinder, it doesn't, it goes down through the crank case first then up on the side of the cylinder so the oil in the fuel can lubricate the lower end.
The basic rule is 25:1 non-synthetic for a tank or two, then 32:1 of synthetic. Unless you are running some special Amsoil type lubricant good for like 50:1 or even 100:1 your lower end will simply wear extremely fast.
Top speed was 18MPH.
Even with your 24" back wheel that bike should do over 20MPH, there could be other factors like wheels that don't spin free the usual cause is a worn engine and typlical way to hide that is to use way less oil so the gas mix is higher which is what caused the problem to begin with much like people putting sawdust in their transmission to sell a car so it doesn't leak and make noise until it's out of their hands.
You see fuel in the magneto cover.
A leak there with be an unpredictable gas/air mix.
There are topics here for how to replace the seal so reference them.
It never did idle.
It won't idle because the idle set screw is a bolt that is not tapered and able to reach the small ramp on the carb barrel to set its idle height.
DO NOT attempt to set this by throttle cable tension, just get a real idle screw if it will even screw in now that a bolt was forced in it because if your idle is cable tension dependent just turning your handlebars can cause it to rev up unexpectedly, especially with ape hangers.
Can't get the plug out without removing gas tank.
If you want your plug easier to get to, pull the head and rotate it so the plug faces forward, be sure to use a torque wrench in the proper sequence and tighten it to 20# when warm.
I was too expensive.
That all depends on your needs and if you needed reliable quality transportation you took a wrong turn going 3rd hand used and I'll leave it at that but you have my sight unseen assessment of what is wrong.