I can't work outside in this heat these days despite 40+ years living and even doing roofing in it for my dad's roofing company as a kid (teens to mid 20's).
I am hover an expert at keeping cool ;-}
Originally Posted by 5-7HEAVEN
You're a genius, KC. That'll save a few bikes from being stolen.
I have my clever ideas, thanks for the kudo's ;-}
An ignition kill switch won't prevent someone from riding it away or putting it in a truck but they won't be able to escape with motor power and not get far pedaling trying to start the motor.
We are way off this 'too hot to ride' topic with disabling the motor but I'd bet an auto parts store 12V small panel mount light switch would fit in the box, it's not much larger than the keylocks I used and you could just tie the wires to the 2 CDI wires to short the CDI input like the kill button.
I just happen to be buttoning up my latest build so I took a couple of pics before I 'sealed the deal' as it were as I just temp the CDI in with stock wire for test rides first and this last.
The box's I use are about 1 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 1", it's just right for the smaller CDI's Skyhawks come with and still let wire out one side.
If memory serves I got my second 50 of those plastic boxes from Mouser. http://www.mouser.com
for 50 cents each in bulk.
I just use the existing kill button wire now but 16g indoor/outdoor double insulated black speaker wire from the mag to the cdi, $50 for a 50' spool at Fry's Electronics. Note that any good outdoor extension cord or even PC/TV power cord works just as well but the wire colors will be different so attention to polarity.
So for $1.50 in parts and 1/2 an hour of time my ignition system comes out like this.
Top it off with an Iridium plug and you have a clean trouble free ignition system that gives you a big reliable spark that's pretty hard to beat.
As always just tips of how I build 'em, take 'em, or leave 'em ;-}