Originally Posted by Kapelusprime
@ biknut........ Sweet inspiration! What did you use for a front motor mount? Looks to be some flat 1/25 inch flat steel stock a hockey puck cut to shape and ubolt covered in a rubber tube. I need help with terminology mostly. I want to put a springer fork on, What do I look for when it comes to size (1 in) etc how do I measure what I have. I also want to replace the crank and pedals, what do I look for there to know what I have or need for replacement? Would you use that electric hub up front? I'm digging the look of the black hawk I saw on a site for sale complete on another site. At $3000 I'd rather build a facsimile of it myself. I like the flat black look with either flat springer forks or chrome with dual headlights and led my existing tail light. All this may be ambitious for my first build but I'd like to end with a nice finished product. Where do you get that chain tension idler, I'm going to use your motor and chain set up. I've seen some folks leave a long chain on when it looks like a chain tool and master link would help shorten the issue of taking up a lot of slack. Any reason? or is it just getting proper angle into the motor housing? Last of the many questions for now, if I use the rim size you gave me, which sounds just fine to me. Will that also accommodate a front disk kit you can get on the spring forks?
Thanks Folks for the input and please feel free to keep comment and input. I will post step by steps and finish product when I'm done. I'm pumped to get started!
I'll try to answer most of your questions. I'f I leave something out just ask again.
Sounds like you understand the front mount pretty well. The front motor mount is made out of a hockey puck, a common automotive $3 muffler clamp, and a piece flat steel stock, bend and drilled to fit. It's attached tightly to the frame, and there's very little give to it.
In this vid there's a pretty good look at the motor mount @ 3:11 This was a different bike but the only difference on this bike is the steel plate is reversed. Instead of over the mount, it's under. I like to do it whichever way lets the motor sit lowest in the frame.
I think you may be in luck with a springer fork on that bike. The springers I've seen for sale only come with 1" steerer tubes. I think the Rovers are one inch. You'll have to remove the forks and measure the steerer tube to be sure. If you want a disk brake on the front you'll need to get a wheel made with a disk brake hub. ViniceMotorBikes sells a disk brake adapter for springer forks to hold the caliper.
You can find springer forks on ebay.
It's pretty easy to replace the pedal crank, but there's all different kinds to choose from. one piece, three piece, sealed bearings, alloy, steel. What comes stock on that bike is called, one piece, American style. The whole in the frame where the crank goes through is called a bottom bracket (BB). If you do go to the trouble to change the crank, it's a good idea to lower the gearing a little. There's nothing like pedaling a 60lb broken down motor bicycle about 5 miles with stock gearing LOL. the front sprocket is probably about 45T. 40T would be mo betta.
That bike has a pretty nice top tube, and it's shame to mess up the paint with a stock fuel tank, that will probably break anyway. Consider some other type of tank. Here's a thread about making the ones I used. This will cost about $100 extra.
The chain tensioner I made for the Rover is made from a stock tensioner just mounted differently. This just requires some conduit clamps and some drilling. Maybe some slight bending. It's a little extra trouble but a lot more dependable than stock. I recommend it.
When you order the hub adapter get either a 40T or 36T sprocket. If you have a lot of hills get the 40T. 40T = a little over 30+ mph. 36T about 35+ mph. At the same time buy the KMC Industrial 415 Chain from Pirate.
What did I forget?