Spoke issue

J

Jimmy D

New Member
Can anyone help me . I just got into this forum and thnk god for it. I bought two engines on a whim. Trying to install the sprocket. It has 9 hole and as I have found out is set up for a wheel w/ 36 spokes. My bike has 32 spokes. So far I have figured out I can get 8 screws through but am having one **** of a time with getting the three back brackets to line up and not overlap. Amazingly the sprocket does seem to be alligned pretty well. The only way I can tell is by spinning the wheel and watching the bottom of the sprocket. If there is a trick to making sure there are no allignment issues before tighening down screws I would love to know it . Thanks for the Help..
 
Somebody heres got the answer? Haven't run into this yet.Call the vender you got the motor from is your bolts to this 6mm or 8mm. Betting the 6mm would cure it. These 6mm and 8mm have diff patterns 6 mm clusters the pattern to a smaller bolt up closer to the hub.:-{
 
Will a 5 hole sproket work better? I have one you can have if it will.

As for the alignment thing, tighten slowly like lug nuts- cross pattern and just keep eyeballing it as you go.
 
For the short term, I switched over to a different rear wheel with 36 spokes. New issue with this rim is the portion of the hub that the gear lays on doesn't come out as far from the wheel. If I install the outside rubber donut it pushes the gear out to far and it doesn't have a tight fit. Is it ok to only use the inside donut if the gear doesn't ride up against the spokes? PS you guys are a god send and I'm really starting to like the challenges this hobby brings.
 
Coaster brake or other?
Sometimes with a coaste rbrake wheel, you have to grind off the dust cover flange to clear the sprocket.
 
apologize for how green I am on the bike vocabulary. I'll get better. It's a 13 speed canondale with hand brakes hub ( I think Shimanno) is slightly concave. So as long as it can sit back far enough I have a tight fit. The thickness of the donut pushes it to far out causing it not to be flush.
 
I don't think it would be a good idea to mount the sprocket without the second rubber. The whole works (sprocket, rubber,spokes, rubber, metal plate) acts as a clamp and a sprocket mount.

Anybody else?
 
If it's sticking out as you say, is it hitting the chainstay (frame rail)?

As long as you can keep the chain and both sprockets lined up, you can shim the frame with a washer or two.

Am I headed in the right direction?
 
HI JIMMY, I`M FROM EAU CLAIRE, BEEN IF FLORIDA NEAR 20 YRS. THIS FORUM IS GREAT AND AMAZING. THESE OLDER KIDS rotfl WILL GET YOU GOING. ENJOY YOUR BUILD. RON
 
I use two fairly long screw drivers inside the wheel after I have tightened the sprocket bolts fairly tight. Like a X pattern. Gently move the bolts apart where the 3 metal shims come together. They will "pop" in place. Be careful you don't bend the hub. It takes time. For me it's the most difficult of the build. Hemostats help to put the washers on the bolts inside the hub. It takes time to do it. My first took almost five hours. Now it takes about two.
 
You have 3 options to solve your problem:
1) there is a sprocket that is really meant for 32 holes, you can get this from the Vendors here. Try Andy or Dax.
2) Replace your rear wheel with 36 spokes.
3) Use the shifter from SBP, but you might encounter problems with your bottom bracket. Requires 125mm or longer.

I would not reccommend removing the rubber donut thingy. It's an important part of the drivetrain and support. If you remove it, you'll be risking damaging your spokes. Breaking your spokes at 25mph is not good. Get the picture?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top