Re: My new clutch actuator
We got my mule bike all back together today. I would say the clutch kit works well with the Shifter Kit, but there are some necessary steps:
1) You will need 40 mm bolts for the front two and a 50+ long bolt and a nut for the back hole. It may be ok to use a 40mm bolt for the rear hole as well but the threads in that hole are very weak and I think it's prudent to run the fastener through using a nut and washer. Especially because these hold the left plate.
2) As far as alignment and fit, we did need an extra spacer washer along with the standard one by the 17T sprocket to properly allow for the taller new clutch cover.
3) When we got it all together even with the clutch disengaged the chain would not spin freely. Took some head scratching.....The chain was hitting the very back of the machined new cover and we couldn't adjust it forward to clear. I used a burr tool in the Dremel to hog some aluminum out.
4) You'll probably need to cut the protruding threaded portion of the upper (left) u-bolt. Mine hit the longer clutch arm.
5) The instructions are thorough - a little clunky (Jim is not claiming to be Shakespeare), but dang it thoroughly gets the point across for the most part. It's best to do the install starting with the clutch over off so you can see what is going on. I needed to grind the shortest pin and I would say that if you need to use the screws (bolts) to pull the new cover in at all, then the pin is too long. Just touching....but not actuating the clutch is something to keep in mind. Then you can dial it in with the flower nut.
6) Don't use a heavy grease or especially tacky grease on the cam round surfaces. My special clutch gear grease is way to tacky for the cam/housing contact surfaces (tightly machined). Made it quite sticky. Amazingly the freewheel grease made the the cam turn perfectly. Tacky grease is fine on the eccentric and pin.
The feel is very smooth now. Especially with the teflon coated clutch cable. Like hot knife in butter. Pinky easy.