Point Beach gets an EZM kit.

The chain from ACE Hardware has surprisingly good quality for only costing $13. It is well worth the wait to special order.

The maiden voyage around the neighborhood was awesome! She has a brisk top speed and the ride is soooo vibration free compared to my Chinagirl. I am afraid I will end up smoking the clutch climbing the hill though. It was slipping the whole way up and I was pedaling like mad to match the bike's speed with the lock up speed of the clutch. It never happened. I did pass another guy who was huffing and puffing, slowly pedaling up the hill though. I am sure he had some colorful thoughts about me as I flew past him.

Perhaps I should get a 60 tooth sprocket and do the whole machine/ weld/ drill thing to it.....

After enjoying the ride I worked some more on my MagLight battery holder.
It was an old 3 cell size D battery one. Now it's a 4 cell battery holder that will be water tight and easy to mount and blend into the bike.

I got some Alumiweld rod from Harbor Freight to attach the top cap, and soon I will close up the switch hole too.
I have never used Alumiweld before. It is easy to use. I recommend it anyone who needs to do a simple repair or non structural joint on aluminum to give it a try. Who knows, I might just try my hand at fabricating an aluminum gas tank in the future.

Here's some pics of it. I know, I know it looks like a pipe bomb. :)~ I didn't think of that until after I took the pictures and checked them out on my computer.

PointBeachBuild043.jpg

PointBeachBuild044.jpg

PointBeachBuild045.jpg
 
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Nice......I'd go with a shorter fuse tho laff

Don't worry, you won't smoke that clutch.....although it might feel like it. Just remember to lube the oil-lite bearing frequently and yeah, a 60t rear sprocket wouldn't hurt either.


GearNut said:
The chain from ACE Hardware has surprisingly good quality for only costing $13. It is well worth the wait to special order.

The maiden voyage around the neighborhood was awesome! She has a brisk top speed and the ride is soooo vibration free compared to my Chinagirl. I am afraid I will end up smoking the clutch climbing the hill though. It was slipping the whole way up and I was pedaling like mad to match the bike's speed with the lock up speed of the clutch. It never happened. I did pass another guy who was huffing and puffing, slowly pedaling up the hill though. I am sure he had some colorful thoughts about me as I flew past him.

Perhaps I should get a 60 tooth sprocket and do the whole machine/ weld/ drill thing to it.....

After enjoying the ride I worked some more on my MagLight battery holder.
It was an old 3 cell size D battery one. Now it's a 4 cell battery holder that will be water tight and easy to mount and blend into the bike.

I got some Alumiweld rod from Harbor Freight to attach the top cap, and soon I will close up the switch hole too.
I have never used Alumiweld before. It is easy to use. I recommend anyone who needs to to a simple repair or non structural joint on aluminum to give it a try. Who knows, I might just try my hand at fabricating an aluminum gas tank in the future.

Here's some pics of it. I know, I know it looks like a pipe bomb. :)~ I didn't think of that until after I took the pictures and checked them out on my computer.

PointBeachBuild043.jpg

PointBeachBuild044.jpg

PointBeachBuild045.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I like this stuff: http://www.maximausa.com/shopping/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=28

Goes on really thin, drys waxy and not sticky at all. Never flings off unless you over apply it.

I won't sweat frying the clutch now, unless it starts glowing when I am at the top of the hill....

Question though, I am getting alot of metal and rubber dust inside the Q-Matic cover.
The rubber I assume is just the belt getting married to the brand new pulleys, but what about the metal? Today I am going to inspect the whole drive system for rubbing parts.
 
That's normal stuff going on under the EZM cover.......black rubber dust, lube, chain, sprocket and Congress pulley metalflakes. You think that's bad, peek under the cover of my CVT somtime......ten fold rotfl

Just keep the bushing and your chain lubed and all will be well (as you know) ;)

dnut

GearNut said:
I like this stuff: http://www.maximausa.com/shopping/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=28

Goes on really thin, drys waxy and not sticky at all. Never flings off unless you over apply it.

I won't sweat frying the clutch now, unless it starts glowing when I am at the top of the hill....

Question though, I am getting alot of metal and rubber dust inside the Q-Matic cover.
The rubber I assume is just the belt getting married to the brand new pulleys, but what about the metal? Today I am going to inspect the whole drive system for rubbing parts.
Click to expand...
 
Good stuff there, you're covered! :D

The belt should break in nice; when you have the cover installed you'll notice more of the crumblies.
It will help a lot if you get some belt dressing. Dielectric grease or vaseline works, too.
 
I have a 1 pound can of silicone Dielectric grease, use it all the time when I fabricate/ service motorcycle harnesses to prevent corrosion and seal out moisture. It being silicone based though wouldn't that make things too slippery?
 
No, in fact, dielectric grease is some of the best belt dressing around. A light application every month should keep the belt going a long time.
 
Tonight I added switches to my brake levers. I roughly followed the instructables link shared in the Lighting and Electrical section by abikerider. http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=354587&postcount=8

The biggest deviation of the instructables I did was using a letter "C" drill bit instead of a 1/4 inch one so as to cut deeper, stronger threads into the soft aluminum.
A 7mm x .75 tap needs a 6.2mm hole. A "C" bit falls in between 6.2 and 6.3mm, which is considerably smaller than 1/4 inch, 6.350mm. With threads this small you want all the meat you can get! I don't own any metric bits so... use what you have, right?

PointBeachBuild046.jpg


If there is anything left of my paycheck after I pay all the bills this month I can continue on with the electrical side of the build. Otherwise I will have to wait until the next pay check....
At least there are plenty of things that still need a good coat of white spray paint which I have plenty of.
 
Don't forget heat-shrink to keep the elements out of your switches and wiring ;)

Looking good Dan.........let's ride!

dnut
 
I made an exhaust system for it over the weekend. It sounds more like a 250cc engine now rather than a 49cc engine and the sound volume is about the same as the kit muffler.

Here are the parts used, the handlebars came off of an old exercise bicycle:
PointBeachBuild047.jpg


And here is it welded up and on the bike. I think I want to get it chromed but that depends on how much $$$ it will cost.
PointBeachBuild048.jpg


As I have made quite a few changes to the bike since I last posted any photos of it, here's the other side:
PointBeachBuild049.jpg


Still not done with it yet, but I am happy with how things are turning out. :D
 
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The long pipe looks awesome!

Have you thought of some engine enamel for the copper? Something close to the frame color or white even, eh?
 
Thank you, both of you!
The length I Really like for multiple reasons.
1. Looks awesome!
2. Puts all the noise behind me.
3. Is the secret behind the killer deep, throaty sound.
4. Long pipes make more torque at lower RPM's with a slight loss of horsepower at higher RPM's.
It is a low RPM engine so that is a win for sure.

The copper color on the handlebar - header is actually rust. I plan on getting it flame sprayed which will give it a very durable satin aluminum finish. I couldn't wait to see it built and on the bike and also hear what it sounds like so the rust is temporary.
 
I got the exhaust back from FSI today... in 2 pieces. :(
It seems that the lawnmower muffler's metal was paper thin around it's inlet pipe. It failed during the polishing phase of the coating process.
The saying "They sure don't make things like they used to" sure rings true in this situation. The metal is less than half as thick as the mufflers that I used on my minibikes back in the 80's.
The pipe looks beautiful though. A nice semi textured polished aluminum.

I cannot blame FSI or the outsourced shop that did the work for the failure.
I am asking the muffler to do something that it was never intended to do, and it couldn't do it.

Now I gotta strip off the coating from the end of the muffler (without going through it) and the end of the header to weld a washer between the two. That will hold up fine and be much stronger than original.
FSI offered to re-finish the affected area for free when I am done. :)

1 step forward, 2 steps back...
 
Should have welded a sleeve over the muff perhaps? Looks real nice Dan, get yer plate on there and let's RIDE! C'mon man.....times a wasting and we're not gettin any younger bro, believe me. She's ready to roll....

.wee.

and that is far from a low RPM engine.......again, believe me ;)
 
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I am waiting on the plate from the DMV. It has been 1 1/2 weeks and they still haven't cashed the check yet.
 
GearNut said:
I am waiting on the plate from the DMV. It has been 1 1/2 weeks and they still haven't cashed the check yet.
Click to expand...

*I begin holding breath for a month.........or three*

Knowing how the CA DMV operates, this could take years! laff laff (i'm not really laughing, I'm trying to maintain composure)

.bf.
 
I repaired the exhaust. The guy at FSI is on vacation so I have to wait another week get it re-coated and polished.
If you look where the header meets the muffler you can see where the repair was made.
PointBeachBuild050.jpg

I really like the finish of the JetHot coating. Chrome it is definately not and it also is not something that one sees every day.
 
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