Tensioner on pedal side chain

SdCruizer

SdCruizer

New Member
Ive tried, and tried for hours a few different times to get my chains set correctly. Im using that nice kip tensioner on the engine chain and I cant use a 1/2 link because they are to wide. My master link wore a groove in the tensioner bracket so I even got rid of that.

To have perfect engine tension my pedal chain is so loose it falls off under hard pedaling.
So I have to keep the rear wheel cocked slightly so the pedal chain is tight, and the engine chain is tight.
Ive spent so much time adding a link to the engine, to find out then its way to long

taken away link on pedal, even tried a half link to find out its way to tight.


so it wouild be ideal to use a tensioner on the pedal chain, this way my rear wheel can be positioned straight.
I just saw this pic today

Adapter.jpg



That looks like a tensioner. Is there someone selling this or do I have to make one. If anyone has one made can you post a pic and the parts so I can get on this.
 
Get some washers that fit the axle. Put them on the left side. You will have to spread the frame a bit to put the wheel back on. Use a hammer handle to coax it into place, and move the tensioner where it supports the chain.
 
I am always in a hurry trying to do three jobs at once. Why would a tensioner be on a single speed bike anyway? I need more data, sorry. (c)
 
in my first post I said to get the correct tension on the engine side chain the pedal chain gets too loose, if I add links, remove links on either side it wont work
engine side gets too slack, or pedal side is way to tight

So if there was a way to tension the pedal side that would allow me to keep the wheel at a 90 degree angle

My wheel is centered but top and bottom are tipped slightly if that makes sense
mine is like this \ I want this | ( exaggerated of course not that bad of an angle)

right now im like 95 degree angle in order to keep the pedal chain tight enough not to skip and fall off under hard pedaling
or imagine engine chain side in the center of the slot for the axle bolt, pedal side all the way to the rear of the slot for the axle bolt
 
You could always fabricate a little bracket and use a derailer sprocket like this. Sorry this was a pre-paint job construction photo but you get the idea.
Tom
 

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This is my way...simple, easy and you can use the kit roller.

This is what I use on all my bikes....
 

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I do make that bracket, on the newer design it is mounted behind the rear drop-out on the axel. Much cleaner look and no need for a second nut.
 
What about this
I would like to have first spring loaded just because it gives the chain some play

SP32-20120301-145043.jpg


I just bought this on e bay $20 shipped
Have no idea if it will work but it looks like it will bolt up to my nut, and the sprocket slides in and out to align with the chain
This was the only one I could find and had to wait until the bid was over so I wouldnt loose it



I wouldnt mind having a back up plan, if you could pm me a price of that bracket you make too
If its not to much I will buy it also
 
I tested that too and it works, but looks ugly

my bike looks really nice with all the parts ive used on it, so that e bay tensioner will help with the looks, if I can use it

plus I like spring loaded
 
I did that too. If you round off the corners and paint it, it's not so bad.

I have made 1x1 tensioners out of old rear derailers before. You can leave them intact, and run the chain normally, but short as possible, or cut the pulley cage down and use one pulley with a long bolt and locknut, best with some kind of big washer to keep the chain from ever possibly skipping off there. You can cut a spoke or piece of wire hanger to substitute for the cable to keep it in position, or just replace the limit screws with long allen bolts and a drop of loctite on them. It looks nice, and I never dropped a chain even on a mtn bike.

There are commercial products now like the one shown above, but you can make mine for $0-5 easily.

SlowBalt said:
I just use the kit tenshioner on the pedal side.
Click to expand...
 
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