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Old 01-17-2012, 10:21 PM
Motorized Bicycle Elite Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: CA
Posts: 1,756
Default Re: Hello from Erie, PA

Welcome a bit late in reply..... I suspect you have icy weather by now. I used to live in New York and just hearing of some posts on MB, that some have been in mishaps that were not other vehicle involved, please be careful if like this.

My motor bike like before back in the 70's, a Briggs DIY 3hp 4stroke, I never really had a lot of stuff loosening. I think then it was just split lock washers I used. Now I have used those or external tooth star lock washers and the nuts with nylon locking. To add to that Loctite Blue I will eventually do, but using a primer that I heard is sometimes necessary with inactive metals (like stainless steel). This primer prep Loctite 7649 I got and use it immediately before putting the threadloc on.

Another primer of Henkel which maybe I understand is the parent company of Loctite has this other primer Loctite 7088 and on the page mentions about the science of the primer. Metals low in ions? All I remember from back in school was something about valance where electrons were shared? Probably wiki it and see more.

Looking closer this type is a non liquid type in stick form for primer before threadloc.

FYI from the above pdf

LoctiteŽ QuickStix™ 7088™ Primer is recommended for use on plated, anodized and galvanized
parts, and inactive metals such as titanium, zinc, aluminum and others. It is especially effective on cold metals and challenging assemblies that feature large gaps or deep threads.

I tried using it with the threadloc on a universal joint of a windsurf board, but it always loosened anyway. Finally a tech at the shop took the stud threads on each end and put them to the space between a falling hammer and an anvil. It was just enough to deform the threads but they would go in and never move again. Since this part unlike the threaded stuff on motor bikes can't use the same approach as it is not speratable, please don't use this way. Since the rubber universal joint will eventually break in time, the only thing wasted are a few parts costing less than $20 that are permanently attached to the universal joint when it is tossed out. It is better than having it separate on the water though.


Last edited by MEASURE TWICE; 01-17-2012 at 11:11 PM.
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