Originally Posted by Goat Herder
Originally Posted by BarelyAWake
Well it's Amsoil Saber @ 100:1 instead of Opti,
Wow thats really cool B.A.!
My first 5.8 Morini I examined the cylinder bore @ 4000 plus miles and one very cruel and unusual beating testing all limitations. I was convinced I had scored the piston and had a new one with rings on stand by..
To my joy and surprise! The 5.8 looked bran new inside the bore.... not one scuff mark on the piston or the cylinder walls!!! The piston had the original lath groove cut marks from when the piston was constructed at the factory unblemished. The carbon trails around the piston rings were text book perfect.
With the jshaft abomination I got that motor so hot once on a severe 20 mile ''up hill'' towards a Mountain test run... that it even stopped running till I let it cool off in the hottest month of July in real Desert heat 100 F. plus . That was my morbid severe testing madness tho. I really wanted to know if I could break chains the N.V. hub etc. For better words I was ''absolutely'' trying to break it.... ALL 0F IT.
While waiting for the motor to cool off the N.V. hub left a wicked burn scar on my hand... When I touched it my skin sizzled!! I love the M. single speed now.. That N.V. was not a energy efficient design in my experience
My 9.4 single speed is absolutely cherry and does every thing perfect for me. Never did I over heat that motor. That 5.8 was run on Amsoil's Dominator @ 42to one.
That other motor looks like a Marine motor?
I saw this post today and found it very interesting.
Originally Posted by Greybeard
I found this while doing some research on oils. It's not completely scientific, but it's interesting for a couple reasons. The engine was spinning a propeller, and rpm differences show as power increase or decrease. Opti-2 was not used in this test, however the only 100-1 test showed piston scuffing, whereas none showed in any other test. I'd look at that as a headsup. No extra power, but extra wear. The most power was @ the beginning of a test @ 32-1
If nothing else, that was a real tough test, hours running at full throttle. Nascar engines only run 3 hours and are torn down and rebuilt or sold. This sucker endured quite a beating.
Goat, 'cuse the rant - it's just my general opinion, not directed at you & prolly the last time I'll bother to post in this thread as there will always be just one more naysayer whom will post their "findings" without even trying anything themselves, ignoring the rest of this thread and all those that have come before & recommending insanity like 32:1 with 100:1 synthetic "because more is better" or w/e
...Yes, that's a Yamaha 3hp outboard that's at least 25 years old & granted, tho water cooled - I think it's notable that it and all other Yamaha 2 strokes in it's class call for 100:1 from the factory
and have for decades now, long before any rumors of EPA shenanigans. I took a pic of that one 'cause it was handy.
To the best of my knowledge, all
their "modern" oil injected two strokes, outboard, dirt bike or atv use ratios between 50 & 100:1. It's only mentioned in the advanced tech & service manuals & I suspect that's due to shade tree "mechanics" paranoia - an opinion shared by the service technicians whom get to deal with the consequences of the owner "outsmarting" Yamaha. In fact, if you decide you "know better" than Yamaha's engineering department & decide to premix richer, and/or bypass their variable oil injection systems (which run even leaner mixes at idle/no load), you will completely void their normally extensive & comprehensive warranty package... but hey they've only been building motors since 1955, racing since 1956, what would they know?
Point being - run w/e the heck you want, I don't care if you mix 16:1 w/used motor oil or even collect donkey ear wax for 1:1, all I'm saying is there is nothing
unusual, revolutionary or experimental about 50:1 - 100:1 oil fuel mixes, it's been around, used & even mandated by actually reputable engine manufacturers, designed by real engineers for decades - second guessed only by whom? A handful of consumers whom haven't tried it and second rate dropshippers looking to void warranties for any reason they can. ...Just my personal observations ofc, but as I've personally
tried it AND I'm not selling engines or oil, or anything at all - I like to think it's slightly less prone to bias *shrug*
As for this: http://www.rcaer.com/userfiles/file/...%20Summary.pdf
- I vote "It's not completely scientific" as the understatement of the year, the author even said as much as he "translated" someone else's findings (unnamed "scientist" ofc) & interjecting his personal opinions (quote: "remember, this is my biased
opinion") on some obscure commercial website.
motor run overspeed & overload to try all sorts of different oils, including ratios twice that of recommended with the 100:1 being "tested" last and best yet? No mention of a rebuild between "tests" (quote: "...the engine is finally showing the wear of long accumulated runtime" = no rebuild or replacement) - let alone the results of those 100:1 "tests" being in direct contradiction to my own findings - hard carbon & piston scuffing, neither of which is evident on my high mileage engine, it's got a very light layer of soft, greasy deposits & no piston scuffing - there's some light streaking on the cylinder walls, the one evident in the pic is where the ring gap was & wiped off w/a touch. The chrome liner is flaking off a bit - but that's at the base of the cylinder, well below the combustion chamber or the ring wear area & I attribute this to it's extremely high mileage combined with shoddy manufacture & skirt slap.
Pardon me if I don't jump right up to dump out all my 100:1 & run 1:1 donkey wax lol
In conclusion - I am not
recommending anything other than a quality oil run at the oil manufacturer's recommended mix ratio
as the one thing that's been proven beyond a doubt is the Chinese in-frame kit manufacturers & their retailers don't know diddly. Run what you wish, whatever makes you sleep better at night - but for crying out loud, don't
double or even triple the ratio for an advanced synthetic just because you think you know better, or because you read something written by someone somewhere on the interwebs (including my rants ofc).
Pick a ratio you're comfy with & buy an oil made for that ratio
- at least that way you know if/when something goes wrong, it wasn't the oil mix.