Originally Posted by 5-7HEAVEN
Lol, rusty, I'm cheap. I'm not gonna spend time and $$ nitpicking for a 1/20 of a hp loss. My bike is very fast with beaucoup power, just like I need it. I could spend $90 for a custom sprocket from King's. However, the guy never returns my pm's or emails, so no loss. If I DID buy the sprocket, install it and the problem STILL exists, I'm out $90. I COULD buy another $20 Chinese sprocket, but that one could be out of round too. It COULD be a slightly bent bottom cartridge, or it COULD be a defective $10 freewheel. I have a $70 freewheel for my next build. If the 'wheel fails, I MIGHT install the expensive freewheel.
Nah, I'll just screw on another cheap, used freewheel and keep riding it to work daily, like I've been doing for the past 6 months. :
Hey! If the failed 'wheel IS the culprit, then I will have fixed the problem and regained the hp loss...for free!
I always think in my sleep, and this is what I figured out:
Another reason why the chain goes loose/tight/loose/tight is because of the gearbox sprocket position interrelationship with the chainring sprocket AND each other.
It is very similar to adjusting the alternator/generator pulley on an old car.
This was established when the Scooterguy mount was first bolted on. Both adjustments are slightly above and about 5" from the gearbox sprocket. Each adjustment has a radial/circumference relationship towards each other, which then rotates the gearbox sprocket along its own tiny orbital path. Every shift along the circumference on one adjustment alters the path of the other adjusting point. That is why the "pulling" side of the chain (gearbox sprocket pulling clockwise from the chainring sprocket) is ALWAYS tighter than the "following" side/trailing side of the engine chain.
So basically I MIGHT be able to readjust the mounting position, until the chain is the same tension on the "pulling" side and the "trailing" side.
This might eliminate the tight/loose/tight/loose predicament.....for free!