I built a cranbrook last Sunday…
Yep, they don’t tap the threads as deep on all of the holes on the raw engines. I did that exact same thing! Same side too.. lol.. It broke way too easey, so that was my clue to go and find grade 8 or 12 m6 allen bolts. That’s key to a happy engine as the bolts that come with it will eventually break! No Joke! They are so soft and junky!! Broke a rear mount stud on my first build. Almost took out the motor case . 6 builds later and I have a whole trash can full of the stock hardware.
---definitely a must to use good hardware!
Oh and don’t use the “T” adapter for the front mount that came with the RAW kit!!! It is significantly thinner than the others offered with kits. It has a 6mm stud that is SOFT METAL!! it’s junk. The other ones have an 8mm stud and the bolt is of ok quality… trust me.. the best thing to do is get the 3 dollar u bolt adapter from RAW. I ordered it and it was pictured as a single u bolt but came as a double u bolt. Pretty nice actually.
The sprocket looks ok. I used a thin piece of reinforced rubber on the outside between the spokes and sprocket, then used only one of the supplied rubber rag joints on the inside. If the rubber is too thick the sprocket will “walk” around on the hub. Try to make shure its centered. you want to keep an eye on the spacing of the hub and sprocket and tighten in an x pattern like doing a head on an engine. If you tighten one side too much the sprocket will be angled.
Also I had to take my dust cap off too, but replaced it with an o-ring to help with dirt/grime. went in perfect!
Keep an eye on the rear hub.. the bearings like to loosten up often and that could be dangerous……
Good luck, and hope this helps! -Bo
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