Reprinted with gracious permission from original submitter, bikebuilder, from this thread. many thanks to bikebuilder!
(below is response to this question: "ok, after thinking about this i have a question: why isn't the forward motion of the wheel enough to throw the hub back into "drive" after braking? you can brake and coast, brake and coast with the hub on the rear, so why not on front? i'm not understanding why any internal weld is needed.")
The area with all the dots on it is the main focus. On the bike I ride this was one peice and the "nub" where the blue dot is did not exist. I made one. On this one the "ball" is in two peices which allows it to reset so in a rear coaster situation it can be activated at all times. when using it as a drum brake if you let the brake reset. you will get one good stop and then it will reset. The brake arm where the gear used to be will change position and you won't be able to activate it again. Back to this brake. I will just have to remove the spring holding the ball together and weld the two peices together along the green dots. I fully anticipate lifting the rear wheel on the bike this brake is going to be on. The key is that the the part above or behind the area with the dots does not change it's relationship to the cable and lever.