Originally Posted by jerrydellg
... but don't know what he was referring to when he mentioned horizontal dropouts. I'll drill the thing in place if that is the best solution but was thinking of removing it all together. Like I said I read the suggestions but I'm not clear as to why I can't remove it. It seems like the easiest/cheapest/least labor intensive solution but there were all those posts about people modifying the tensioners and not removing them. I assume they're is a reason for that other than the fact that thwe chain stretches over time and will need to be repeatedly shortened (links removed) without the tensioner. I mean the whole modification thing seems like a lot of work to go through if all you need to do is remove the cover over the motor sprocket & cut the chain to length. You would check the chains tension before every ride and might have to remove one more link eventually but....... I must be missing something. What don't I know about this that has everyone else using a tensioner and not cutting the chain to length?
"Horizontal dropouts" jus' means that the slots where yer axle goes are parallel w/the ground - making it possible to make fine adjustments in chain tension by moving your rear wheel farther back. Most newer bikes don't have this as although it does help w/chain length - it can be hard to keep the rear wheel from "shifting" and becoming crooked to the rest of the bike & the pedal chain tension is irrelevant with derailleurs anyway *shrug*
Some folks hafta use the kit idler/tensioner because otherwise the chain will hit/chafe the chainstays, but that's not commonplace. The reason I prefer to try and have some sort of tensioner is pretty simple - while you can ofc adjust chain length by adding/removing a link, it's a suprisingly radical alteration - even using a 1/2 link is sometimes just too much, it's either way too tight and won't quite come together or jus' not enough and a lil too sloppy for comfort. Even the "simple" solution of shimming the motor mounts I feel to be awfully labor intensive for what is really a frequent maintenance task... if you ride a lot.
My Schwinn still has the stock tensioner w/o any holes drilled or shims, but it is the four bolt tensioner which is far more secure than the newer two bolt one, even if I could route the chain w/o interference and not have a tensioner - given the miles I ride not having some quick & easy method of reducing chain slop simply isn't feasible, so I've kept it.
If you're not planning on having yer bike be a "daily driver" & it's just for the funz and/or you don't mind futzing w/half links & shims - defo see if you can rid yerself of the pesky thing, they are a hazard and a bit of a dumb design... but if you can't you might want to try a variation one of the solutions in http://motorbicycling.com/f11/chain-...ons-11815.html
- drilling is
one option many have used & this one doesn't require much in the way of tooling, aluminum is easy to work... I keep thinkin' I'm gonna get around to copying it - but I never do lol, I'm sucha slacker;