Tried bike for first time this afternoon: DIDNT WORK

N

ncfootballchamp

New Member
Alright so I finished up putting my SkyHawk 66/80cc kit together today and I tested it out this afternoon and couldn't get it to start.

I put the gas/oil mixture (16:1) in about a minute before trying to start it, if it makes a difference.

I pedaled up to about 10 mph and then released the clutch. The bike slowed down considerably, so the piston was definitely pumping.

The only thing I can think of is the spark plug isn't firing, but i correctly connected the wires from the engine to the little black box thing that connects to the spark plug.

Do you have any suggestions as to what could be going wrong?

I appreciate the help

:-||
 
wiring, if you followed the craptacular directions, might be wrong. it goes black black black, blue blue and whatever off color your kill switch is.. the white wire is a power output to run lights off of.. Other than that, it might be a bad seal, as I've had plenty of these engines not have solid seals, thus negating compression.. my last engine had a tear in the seal at the bottom of the jug, as well as the fact that the head wasn't bolted down 100%..
 
I wouldn't remix- 16 to 1 is recommended. Choke is at the back of the carb- check electrical connections for shorting out as well- electrical tape prevents. Make sure petcock valve is open for gas. May help to find a small rise to be descending. check that plug wire is on tight.
 
Ok thanks. I've got the CNS carb then. I just got synthetic mobil 1 oil. Also I forgot, the ratio is closer to 20:1.

Could the type of oil have anything to do with this?
 
Oil ratios. Try Opti-2. It's available at all ACE hardware stores, is an amazing creation. One pack to one gallon. I have over a dozen bikes running on the stuff and absolutely no problems with it. No more measuring, no more gunked up engine.
 
DONT RULE OUT ABSENCE OF SPARK FROM PLUG CONNECTOR BREAKAGE

My Spark plug connector was broken right out'a the carton. The replacement broke afte a few days' use. These Bakelite spark plug connectors are too brittle and are universally P.O.S. (Plural) and before build is complete they should be replaced with aftermarket connector and boot (NAPA less than $3)

yodar
 
I doubt that your oil/gas ratio has anything to do with it. I have the same engine and am breaking it in at 16:1. I only have about 35 miles on it but it starts right up; however if you don't have the choke on when it's cold you can pedal it for 100 miles and it won't start.
 
It's been said so many times, but I'll say it again. 16:1 is for 30w oil. Any decent 2-stroke oil mixed at that ratio is starving the mix of fuel and/or fouling the plug. What does your plug tell you? Go from there.

What colour of oily black tar is your plug Hammond?
 
I checked my plug today and it's light brown, like a piece of lightly toasted bread and not oily. However; I do agree that 16:1 is too much oil but I doubt if it is causing the problem in this case. I'm going to start breaking another engine in tomorrow and will start with a 30:1 ratio. Echo Power BlendX synthetic.
 
Ok im pretty sure I got the wrong type of oil. Mine says 5w and is for cars, which i think are 4 stroke engines (basic Mobil 1 oil)

is this bad?
 
oops, yea you want 2-stroke specific oil. Whether its for chainsaws or snowmobiles doesn't matter. But car oil at that ratio should work(it's what they use in china for 16:1). What does you plug look like nc? Is it wet like its getting fuel, but just not sparking?

That's cool Hammond, but I've read alot that breaking in with mineral based oil is better. Then switch to synthetic after, because synthetic doesn't soak into metal as well as mineral.

just my $0.02

D'oh, Nougat posted while I was typing. still check your plug if its wet ^_^
 
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Alrighty then...the new engine is no problem. I'll break it in with 24:1 mineral based oil and then go to synthetic. I've already got 50 miles on the other engine with synthetic at 16:1. I just filled it today with 30:1 synthetic. Do you think I should drain it out and run it for awhile on mineral based oil.
 
run it on conventional for a full tank or two, then go back to syn.... i ran a tank of conventional and switched to syn afterwards. Run 32:1 or less (oil)
 
k, Break it requires friction, synthetics reduce friction, which lowers the overall break-in. (sorry to hijack your thread nc, btw) Most people know a poorly broken in engine will run poorly. If you break it in strong it will run strong. Just don't over-do it on the break in. Plus synthetic oil doesn't permeate into metal/bearings as well as mineral oils does.

K, so don't break in with synthetic nc. let us know how it goes.
 
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lol, yea, how many of these posts could put into a "why run mineral for break in, then switch to synth"

sry nc. good luck man.
 
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