halfevil333 - Yer prolly gonna lol - but I'm using USB cord for wiring, if anything the gauge is on the small side which would increase resistance but it seems to work well enough & I liked it for aesthetic reasons as it's perfectly round and fits sweet in that copper tubing (expensive, but I've a bunch of it anyway).
I'm not sure what the problem might be with your setup man, all I can suggest is propping the bike up so you can freely spin the wheel and test... if you don't have a mutlitester then ya need one particularly for testing continuity, there only like $12 for a cheapo.
Yer gonna have less luck with the engine's white wire than the hub as it puts out even less juice particularly anywhere near idle... but from what you're sayin' I wonder if you might have swapped things around somewhere? It "should" kill the engine when you try to turn the lights on
at idle w/the white wire (lights rob all power frm spark)... and with the hub - I dunno if you're trying to use a frame ground but I wouldn't, the forks aren't the most reliable ground so I ran positive and negative wires to everything. Last but not least - 6v is about all the hub can handle so of you've not gotten a 6v bulb (battery lamp for camping) then mebbe that's all the problem is.
Try the basics if you've not already - just one bulb with a short test lead of both a negative and positive hooked directly to their ports on the hub and give it a spin. I wish I could help ya more man
WayneC & azbill - while I really do like my drum brakes & I think them far better than calipers, I don't think they're quite as good as quality disks for extreme
riding. My interests were reduced wear, wet weather riding & multipurpose hubs (3sp & genny)