Originally Posted by Junster
The thickness of the garlock is about the same as 2 of the kit gaskets would be. I tried no gasket and used loctite 743 sealer for aluminum flanges. (the best) It still failed after about 10 miles. A gasket on the base is a must but the kit gasket is very thin and cheap. The garlock is a far superior material. There is a strong suction then pressure on every turn of the motor. I agree with Venice about pipe tuning cause he's right. You shorten the pipe (1/4" at a time) to get the motor to "come on the pipe" at higher rpm. Longer for more low speed torque. Remember how a pipe works. The motor end taper is twice as long as the rear taper. The sound travels down the front taper expands then hits the rear and is reflected back at the exhaust port. The idea is for the energy from that to get stuffed back into the cylinder just as the port closes. The faster the motor is spinning the shorter the header length to get it there in time. It's isn't a huge deal to change the base gasket. If you blow out a weak stock one along way from home. You will wish you'd had the stronger one. The difference in height is tiny and the reliabilty is huge. Go with getting home everytime. Then go with power. You see big differences in a tuned pipe, good carb, slant head. Not much in 1/32" difference in base gaskets. Remember the gasket gets crushed in service. It will be half the thickness it was after it's used a little.
so you think a thicker base gasket is better. but what do you do to gain the comppression lost at the base? use a thinner head gasket? then you risk blowing the head gasket right?