Originally Posted by Comrade Alfonzo
I started on one frame, didn't work so I found another and was ready to fire it up when I found out things werent clearing, now onto this one which I have fired up for an eighth of a mile. All it does is heave the tensioner into the spokes. Is it cheaper to get a new wheel or get it respoked, it's a mountain bike wheel. Also anyone that sells or is willing to fabricate a Chain tensioner that mounts in 2 points PM me. The chain tensioner has to be mounted very close to the sprocket because of narrow chainstays, and I don't want to space the wheel out much more.
Had this issue, then it just went away. Pulled the sprocket off even though it seemed perfect, re-mounted from scratch, and the problem went away. Also a BIG help is to wrap the inside with a layer or two of thin gasket paper. The stuff grips as good as it seals. You don't even have to torque the bolts down (but you probably should) and you can stand on the thing and it won't move. It also helps if you're throttle likes to move around when you twist it too hard.
BTW it's waay cheaper to re-spoke a wheel (my bike shop charges $1/spoke), and it's real easy to do. Measure it from the bend on the hub end to the end of the threads, then find one of those online conversion tools to calculate millimeters. For some reason, the size is in millimeters when you buy them. Don't worry if you're not 100% sure you're like dead on cuz even the guy at the bike shop said you could be +- a couple millimeters because of the length of the thread (5mm or so). Just as long as it threads in a decent amount and it doesn't poke the inner tube. Oh, and don't worry about a spoke wrench. A pair of vice grips work fine if you only have a couple to deal with. Even better if you take the tire off you can turn them with a flathead screwdriver.