07-05-2008, 10:56 AM
Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Duvall, WA PNW
Re: The perfect list....needed...
Continued from the previous post:
16. More on the kill switch: The older style separate kill switches are JUNK and fail causing a no start condition. The build in ones are quite trouble free, to the point if your engine ever starts in an over rev condition – placing and holding the switch with your thumb is quite necessary until the engine quits turning.
17. Chain tensioner roller: get a bearing one from a good supplier such as DAX, research and build your own tensioner, or lose the whole chain sprocket affair. Rationale: stock ones don't have bearings and will fail.
17a. Chain install: Always clip on your masterlink so the opened end faces toward the rear when it's at the top of the chain run and going forward.
18. Chain tension: chain will stretch by an inch or two during first 50 miles. Keep eye out and don't use bike for transpo to/from work until you do multiple test ride and shorten chain and adjust tension with roller bearing. It shouldn't be said, but you need a chain breaker for install. On a new chain, make chain tension fairly tight but once chain as stretched, make sure that is about 3/4 of an inch play/slack.
19. Rear sprocket: replace all nuts and bolts and lock washers with US made ones. Rationale: The chinese bolts threads strip when you need to tighten down that donut. Use locknuts in addition to lock washers. Nuts will need frequent adjustment during first 100 miles as the donuts settle onto the sprockets and routine tightening for course of ownership. Alternative is to spend money for livefastmotors clamshell mount for rear sprocket which will save lots of install hassle, allow you not to worry about broken spokes. Ensure sprocket is mounted so it runs true. It can be done but takes a while. Have rear tire checked for balance before installing. Clamping donuts onto sprockets can cause wheel to be out of round.
20. Clutch lever and throttle assembly: if kit doesn't have a push button locking clutch lever, buy one.
21. Spark plug: Some have had good luck with the stock plug, but most throw it away and replace with an NGK B5HS or B6HS, or equivalent Champion plug. Rationale: very common for plug to fail internally. It will always fail at the farthest point away from home requiring uphill pedaling the entire way back home.
21. Spark plug wire and boot: throw away and replace with a good automotive plug wire and boot. Rationale: stock plug boot has a small clip that keeps it mounted to plug. It often falls out during ride causing intermittent connecting to plug.
22. Despite the instruction drilling through the frame is not the best thing. There are just so many better options or engine mounts. If you are brave (foolish?) enough to drill through frame don't use factory bolt for front engine mount install. It may shear.
23. Gas tank fuel petcock. Basically throw it away – if you use the stock one, don't use the little build in screen. Get a HD or at the very least different fuel valve. Rationale: The cheesy screen will clog, the stock petcock will break and the basically the valve is a piece of junk that impedes flow significantly making consistent tuning and performance impossible.
24 Fuel line: Always install in-line fuel filter – there are a number of sizes that work perfectly with our bikes. Rationale: needed or crud in fuel tank may clog fuel line.
25. Fuel mixing: Use a dry clean gallon gasoline container. Add some fuel (¼ gallon) then the oil to container, mix and then fill with gas and shake well. Don't add oil to all your fuel at once because it will be a bit more difficult to mix without time and shaking well. Don't pour oil into the dry container for the same reason. Unless it's an emergency don't try to mix it in the tank.
26. 2 stroke oil and oil ratios: The 16-20:1 ratios are unnecessary in well broken in bearing street engines. Run engines at 30:1 - 40:1 when broken in. Follow the instructions while breaking in, but 20:1-25:1 are generally fine and quite oily. You really don't need to keep this up for more than a tank or two – but it does take time to break the engine in. Most kits now recommend synthetic oil.
Some prefer good racing oils because they use castor bean oil. If you wish, buy a gallon or quart of castor from a RC hobby store and blend it with a quality synthetic 2 stroke oil. The ultimate blend would be 1 oz of castor oil with 2-3 oz of Amsoil or other oil of your choice per gallon fuel for the ultimate in engine protection. Castor bean oil does the temperature stability to survive ultimate temperature excursions, but it's unlikely your engine will see this. Castor bean oil does have some drawbacks.
27. Check plug gap on that new US or Japanese sparkplug before install .018-.024 works well.
28. Bike wheel bearings: repack all of them before engine kit install.
29. Bike general stuff: engine vibrates and can loosen many bolts. Including pedals! Brake assemblies fall apart etc...etc..check frequently
30. Fuel tank: put clean bb's or ball bearings (don't use gravel unless it's semi-polished and very clean) in tank before install and shake too loosen rust. Rinse and repeat as necessary. There is lots of rust and crud in many new tanks. Blow a bunch of PB Blaster and allow to soak. Rinse 3 times with gasoline. Some folks will seal the inside of tank...a good idea.
30a. Fuel tank studs: sand paint around studs coming out of tank. JB weld the area. Rationale: some studs leak fuel out of where studs are mounted to fuel tank.
31. Double sided tape: Put double sided tape on bottom of fuel tank. This will prevent scratching of bicycle frame, keep tank from falling off when you are using both hands to mount the frame clamps and nuts. Also allows less torque on tank studs to prevent tank from rotating around the frame. Don't forget to use locknuts and lockwashers and even Loctite. Chain roller bracket: Put doublesided tape on anything that is clamped onto the bike frame. This will prevent scratching paint as you do the necessary sliding back/forward to get correct chain tension and setup. Some often make a new chain as tight as possible by moving bracket as close to rear as possible. Then use the adjustment on the BEARING roller to tighten chain as it loosens from use.