Thread: Motor prep work
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Old 05-12-2010, 03:35 AM
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Junster Junster is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Washington St.
Posts: 446
Default Re: Motor prep work

If you do remove the cylinder hopefully you'll have enough gasket left to make a pattern. If not pull the head bolts and use a layer of grease on the block to transfer the pattern to the gasket paper. I made a hole punch from plumbing nipple to cut the bolt holes in the paper. Just grind one end sharp. It works better than trying to cut them out. Use 1/16" charcoal colored garlock gasket material. The blackish colored gasket material is better for higher heat. Make sure you put the gasket on the engine case first so you can make sure the transfer ports are completely clear. They are the two bulges on the sides. A good seal at the cylinder bottom is critical. Use some 220 wet sandpaper on a piece of thick glass and lap the top of the cylinder and the bottom of the head very flat if you take the cylinder off. You'll have alot less head gasket problems. Keep the paper very wet. Your studs are 8mm. The stock ones do stretch alot but once they finish stretching they are strong enough. Just carry a 1/4" ratchet and socket to retorque them with or replace them with better ones. Get good 8mm nuts and discard the acorns. Unscrew the engine case clutch cable mount. The hole goes right thru to the clutch shaft. pack grease in that hole with a screwdriver or a grease gun needle. Don't go crazy but it's ok to put in a good amount. Don't screw the cable mount back in to far. It is possible to screw it in far enough to bind the shaft. The torque for the head bolts is about 12lbs. I use moly graphite grease cause it slowly impregnates the metal with graphite. It's esp good for the clutch gears under the motors right side cover. With the clutch cable off you can rotate the clutch arm and pull the shaft it's attached to out. If you take a dremel and sand the back edge of the flat off just enough to round it slightly the clutch will be way easier to work. It's the edge that pushes the small stub shaft that releases the clutch. If it's sharp like it comes it drags hard on the small shaft. It's alot harder to explain than to do. Once you pull it out it will become clear. When you get your shift kit look at this mod, It makes the shift kit mount very strong and makes the whole engine case stronger. I am also a fan of no rubber mounting for the motor. Letting the motor flex around is just bad and I think it makes things viberate worse. Sick bike has a great engine bolt kit for 10 and a exellent tank petcock for 10 more. The teflon'd clutch cable is alot stronger and easier to pull then the stcok cable also. Good Luck
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