Originally Posted by scooterhoot
I'm still a noob to the motorized bicycle world, but I worked on MC for 14 yrs before my body told me to stop. I've had some proplem with my kit, carb was junk slide sticking in the bore, tried to lap the carb body, no good, replaced w/ spooky tooth nt carb. Chain tensioner moved to the outside,(better than inside, no spoke damage) & bent the kits cheep a** chain, replaced w/ #41 chain from tractor supply and a self tapping screw to hold it in place. And at just ove 350 mi the chain tensioner wheel gave up, replaced w/ a lawn boy idler wheel from a local lawn mower repair shop. I ride to work everyday I can (don't get wet on purpose) and have over 400 mi on mine, and that is in less then a mounth.
You will have some small problems but keep the faith and keep it the rubber side down!
Thanks for the tips scooter.
The original chain tensioner wheel has to go.
I'll look at the lawn boy idler wheel idea you gave.
In the perfect world, I'd just like to run the chain direct without the tensioner (less parts to break or wear) but I'm not sure of the alignment and if the chain would stay on the sprocket without it.
I have'nt had a chance to run the engine so I can't say anything about the carb or how the engine performs yet.
The kit is on a brand new cruiser with Bendix brake.
Another thing I had to do is open up the center of the sprocket on the lathe.
I only took off a few thousanths to have it slip over the grease cap on the axel.
That's dead center.
I also have to buy a front hand brake for the bike.
Thanks for the tips.
(This started out as a project..now..it's a career!)