Breaking in a new motor

I agree... 16:1 will run your engine lean and let it get too hot, which is the enemy of break ins... For the actual break in procedure, you'll get all kinds of answers as well as some heated arguements in some cases. I'll just say don't run it for more than about 20 to 30 minutes the first tankfull and let it cool all the way down between runs, it's the heat cycling and overheat prevention that'll let your engine live a nice long life, so basically, Do Not let it overheat and you'll probably be fine, but don't let it sit there and idle out a full tank of gas either, the engine does need to be able to see the rpms it's going to run at later on and a light load which can be progressively increased to full load.

I like to run about 7 ounces of oil during break in. I also. Add in a cap full of royal purple automotive engine oil it has zinc And other minerals in it that aid in the break in process basically build it. Fire it idle it for about 2 mins when it first fires then ride it around for the first tank at low rpm quarter throttle don't rev it hard or go full throttle after your second tank do short bursts of high rpm then let it idle back down then coast for awhile and do it again till you have ran that tank thru after the first 2 tanks I like to change the plug even on tank 3 I like to run a little over 6 ounces of oil just to make sure its broken in properly the most important thing is to ride and let the engine cool down till its cold before you ride again

Personal opinion, don't use synthetic oil on break in. It MAY prevent the rings from seating properly. From what I understand synthetic oils stop the break in process and actually seal the walls of the block and prevent wear. On break in you WANT them to wear, to conform to each other for better fit and compression.
There are generally 2 camps of thought on break in. The first is that running the engine hard will help the break in process and help seat the rings to the jug better and sooner. The other is to run the engine lightly and break it in slowly and not to stress the engine too much until break in.
Again my personal opinion is run it hard. I would rather have something fail early when I am within a mile of house during the process, not 35 miles away.
I always go over my engine with a fine tooth comb after every run during a break in. make sure everything stays tight. After all bolts and chains stretch and crap gets rattled loose all the time.
These aren't high quality machines, take care of them though and they should run well for quite a while. Always keep in the back of your mind though that it can go out at any time. Reliability is not one of their strong points.

I agree... It's always best to use a good non synthetic oil during break in, synthetics are too good at protecting from wear and will hinder proper break ins as well.

My preferred method of break in is to go easy on it the first 15 to 30 minutes and stay close to home, after this first run it's time to play a little more with it and run it harder. The main thing to be concearned with is to NOT overheat a new engine and it should break in just fine. I've been messing with 2 stroke engines for over 30 years and never ruined an engine due to improper break in so I do what works for me, others have their own techniques and if it works, then they should stick to what works for them and should be just fine... Pretty much, non synthetic oil and don't let it overheat and it should break in with no problems.

I break mine in fairly hard I would say, I get it running, look over everything real good, do a few mid rpm revs while bike is just sitting there, and listen for anything that sound abnormal and then if all looks and sounds good I take it for a spin, I will keep the speed at what is probably about 3/4 of what the bike will end up doing at top speed, i'll go about 2 miles and then stop and look everything over and listen for odd sounds, if all looks good I take off again and put maybe 10-12 miles on it varying speeds from low 20's to low 30's mph thats usually all I will do on the new engine that day and then the next time I take it out I run it for a couple miles to see how it acts and how the carb tune seems to be and then I open it up and run it hard for a few hundred yards and then back down to a good clip that will likely be where I cruise with it the most, by now it will have about 20-25 miles on it and from this point on I run it like I plan to until it dies, and by the way all this is done with using Opti2 mix @ 100:1 ratio = 1.28oz of oil per gallon, never a single failure and my latest two builds run mid to upper 40's for miles and miles without a single issue in the hot dry Texas weather, I wouldn't dream of running my bikes like this on any other oil though....

Many ways people do theres and if it works out good then its a good way, not sure if anyone actually knows what is "best" all I know is that the way I do mine works great for me, my bikes have good power, good speed and I have not had a single oil related failure since switching to Opti2 back in 2010.

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Man I'm still looking to see who sells Opti2 locally over here because it really sounds like good stuff... I sell and use Amsoil but it's always worth it to give other brands a try when I hear good stuff about them.

Davezilla said:

Man I'm still looking to see who sells Opti2 locally over here because it really sounds like good stuff... I sell and use Amsoil but it's always worth it to give other brands a try when I hear good stuff about them.

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I buy mine from a local hardware store in packets that mix 2 1/2 gallons @ 100:, I use two packets in a 5 gallon gas jug and that runs me for a good long time usually, I use that same mix in every 2 cycle engine I own with excellent results.

Its ebay to find on ebay and it is packaged under some other brand names as well that buy the product and put it in their own package as a one mix for every small 2 cycle engine.

Seems like Sears had it repackaged at one time and tractor supply carried it packaged by Arnold Brand cant remember what it was called though, I just buy the Opti2 myself even though the other is the same stuff just in a different package.

I know 2door, myself and some others on here have been using it for a long time in our engines and I have even heard of it being used in place of light machine oil for some stuff and it worked great for that also, I guess I will always e on the Opti2 band wagon because I use it, I abuse it and it has never let me down, engines run great and I dont put around, lots of WOT riding for mile and miles some time at 40+ mph and high rpm, engines just sing along and never break a sweat... how can anyone complain about that...?

Here is a link to some reviews on Amazon, one bad one I see here that is most like from not knowing what they were doing, since they say the lack of enough oil caused a lean condition which isnt how it works..LOL!
http://www.amazon.com/Opti-2-Cycle-Fuel-Stabilizer-pack/product-reviews/B000H5ZVNY

These are the packets I use. http://www.amazon.com/Interlube-Int..._sbs_lg_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ABXNTAAAJXCHW0F07V1

I am thinking about going this route though http://www.amazon.com/Opti-2-34oz-E...m_sbs_k_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0XK8ZVD023SRP54AA6T9

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Here is some repackaged as Sten Mix http://www.amazon.com/Interlube-200..._sbs_lg_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0H4SK36YVE4FAZYWVMSM

Yeppers its good stuff, the average rider doesnt beat their engines up nearly as much as I do on all the long wide open throttle rides I do most of the time, so there isn't a doubt in my mind that if it works so well for me it will do the same for just about anyone, key to the whole thing is a properly jetted carb, no air leaks and a well built engine and luck of the draw on the engine itself being what it needs to be as most of us know, I do port work and replace the stock upper pin bearing in my engines and run an exhaust that flows good, I get great performance and very little oil smell and next to no smoke, who can complain about a smooth running powerful and fast bike that has a long engine life... Opti2 is what I blame for my engines doing so well.

I'll definitely keep an eye out for who sells the stuff over here or at least get one of those EZ mix bottles off amazon.com... I hadn't seen a single bad review after looking it up some more other than one or 2 that didn't seem to now what they were talking about... At 100:1 I'll need to jet down but I got plenty enough mikuni jets that fit my CNS carb in my stash so dialing it in shouldn't be a problem. My new engine is still pretty fresh with maybe about a quart of fuel burned thru it since I built it up last month so technically it's not even broken in yet and the perfect time to make the switch...