Low speed torque is always fun. My throttle is tamed to keep wheelies down. I can still pop a small wheelie when I hit my 3 speed button that goes from 20mph to 46mph setting. Gets off guard sometimes, which is quickly replaced with a big grin.
This is my Stealth Bomber
- Thread starter biknut
- Start date
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- electric bicycle
I made this little video yesterday racing around the hood.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hanNkjR50Ig
Hopefully you can get a feeling for how advanced Bombers really are in todays eBike market. Expensive it is, but putting that aside, the quality of the overall design, with superior performance, plus high level componentry demand a pretty expensive price, electric, or not.
Notice at 0:45, I'm crossing railroad tracks going over 45 mph. There are railroad track markings painted on the street right before that, that you can see. The camera is mounted on the handle bars, so you can see perfectly the effect going across the tracks had on the bike. That's what 10" of travel will do for your ride. Really about 8", I'm squashing down at least 2" from my massive rump.
When you include class leading acceleration and top speed, and then the super strong dual disk brakes, that's a hard combination to beat. Especially when you consider usually you're only riding less than 25 mph. At those speeds a Bomber feels so extremely safe, and in control. Lots of other eBikes can say the same thing at that speed, but none of them can zoom up to 50 mph if you need to save yourself from some type of traffic menace.
Using the super sensitive throttle, in combination with it's very high quality German designed 9 speed pedal gearbox, called a VBox, gives you the ability to move very precisely from extremely low speed, all the way to 50 mph by under powering the throttle, and applying the necessary pedal force, or a little more throttle. It feels the same as a strong robot that you're in control of..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hanNkjR50Ig
Hopefully you can get a feeling for how advanced Bombers really are in todays eBike market. Expensive it is, but putting that aside, the quality of the overall design, with superior performance, plus high level componentry demand a pretty expensive price, electric, or not.
Notice at 0:45, I'm crossing railroad tracks going over 45 mph. There are railroad track markings painted on the street right before that, that you can see. The camera is mounted on the handle bars, so you can see perfectly the effect going across the tracks had on the bike. That's what 10" of travel will do for your ride. Really about 8", I'm squashing down at least 2" from my massive rump.
When you include class leading acceleration and top speed, and then the super strong dual disk brakes, that's a hard combination to beat. Especially when you consider usually you're only riding less than 25 mph. At those speeds a Bomber feels so extremely safe, and in control. Lots of other eBikes can say the same thing at that speed, but none of them can zoom up to 50 mph if you need to save yourself from some type of traffic menace.
Using the super sensitive throttle, in combination with it's very high quality German designed 9 speed pedal gearbox, called a VBox, gives you the ability to move very precisely from extremely low speed, all the way to 50 mph by under powering the throttle, and applying the necessary pedal force, or a little more throttle. It feels the same as a strong robot that you're in control of..
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I made an executive decision today and changed my seat. I'm sorry, but I stole it off of Stunner. That's just tough tookies when you're number 2. I've always liked this seat. I don't think you can buy them. You have to buy a Felt Deep 6 to get one.
I think it works with the look I've got going on here. The chrome buttons. Hide of a Naga. Tractor seat shape. I've never been a huge fan of the hairpin look, but this seat doesn't show it off as much as some. It also seems to sit a little lower then the old one, so I like that too.
I think it works with the look I've got going on here. The chrome buttons. Hide of a Naga. Tractor seat shape. I've never been a huge fan of the hairpin look, but this seat doesn't show it off as much as some. It also seems to sit a little lower then the old one, so I like that too.
That's what I call a Rump RocketI made an executive decision today and changed my seat. I'm sorry, but I stole it off of Stunner. That's just tough tookies when you're number 2. I've always liked this seat. I don't think you can buy them. You have to buy a Felt Deep 6 to get one.
I think it works with the look I've got going on here. The chrome buttons. Hide of a Naga. Tractor seat shape. I've never been a huge fan of the hairpin look, but this seat doesn't show it off as much as some. It also seems to sit a little lower then the old one, so I like that too.
I went on a bicycle ride with a local riding group Tuesday night. This is what a typical ride looks like.
The starting point was 17 miles from my house. Usually I ride at bicycle speeds to get there in order to save as much battery as possible, but I got a late start so I had so average about 20 mph to get there on time. Some of the time I was going 15 mph and some of the time 25 mph. I covered the 17 miles in an hour, and got there a few minutes before the start of the ride. That used about 6 ah, out of my 18.
Then we started the group ride, which was about 13 miles long. The group averaged about 10-13 mph, and ended up downtown. Riding that slow for 13 miles only used an additional 2 1/2 ah, for a total of 8 1/2 ah used out of 18.
After a few drinks it was time to ride back home. I had 9 1/2 ah to ride 16 miles. That's enough battery to ride 35 mph all the way. I pulled into the garage having used 17.1 ah, after 46 miles. Average speed was 17 mph, with a top speed of about 45 mph.
I still had 0.9 ah reserve, which is about as close as I like to cut it. After a long ride I usually get home with about that much battery left, because no matter how far away I am, I can accurately know how fast I can ride to cover the distance, because I know how many ah is used at different speeds, and distances from experience.
The starting point was 17 miles from my house. Usually I ride at bicycle speeds to get there in order to save as much battery as possible, but I got a late start so I had so average about 20 mph to get there on time. Some of the time I was going 15 mph and some of the time 25 mph. I covered the 17 miles in an hour, and got there a few minutes before the start of the ride. That used about 6 ah, out of my 18.
Then we started the group ride, which was about 13 miles long. The group averaged about 10-13 mph, and ended up downtown. Riding that slow for 13 miles only used an additional 2 1/2 ah, for a total of 8 1/2 ah used out of 18.
After a few drinks it was time to ride back home. I had 9 1/2 ah to ride 16 miles. That's enough battery to ride 35 mph all the way. I pulled into the garage having used 17.1 ah, after 46 miles. Average speed was 17 mph, with a top speed of about 45 mph.
I still had 0.9 ah reserve, which is about as close as I like to cut it. After a long ride I usually get home with about that much battery left, because no matter how far away I am, I can accurately know how fast I can ride to cover the distance, because I know how many ah is used at different speeds, and distances from experience.
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My bike suffered it's first major failure at 3000 miles. One of my swing arm bearings failed, and lost it's balls. I'm thinking it may have failed a 1000 miles ago, but it took me this long to notice, because normally it's hidden behind the pedal sprocket.
I accidentally discovered the problem when I was changing my tires. What tipped me off was when I got the bike off the ground I noticed my chain was too loose. Before I got it off the ground, it was too tight.
I did some research about how to repair the problem, and found a warning not to move the transmission output shaft when the part that holds the sprocket is removed, or parts inside the transmission case will come apart, and you have to disassemble the transmission to put them back together.
I made discovery of the failure on a Friday night. Since my bike is still in warranty I sent an email to Stealth explaining the problem, but I sent it the wrong department. I didn't get a reply till the following Tuesday that said my email was being forwarded to the correct department. The next day I received a reply from the warranty repair department asking for information about the failure.
By then it didn't matter anymore because I had already located new bearings locally, and made repair on Tuesday. Total cost for 2 bearings was $36, and I was able to just walk in and buy them. Now my bike is as good as new, and back on the road again.
I was surprised this bearing even failed in the first place, because it's not terribly stressed for a bearing this size. I'm pretty sure it was a Chinese manufacturing defect, and not caused by excessive wear and tear.
I accidentally discovered the problem when I was changing my tires. What tipped me off was when I got the bike off the ground I noticed my chain was too loose. Before I got it off the ground, it was too tight.
I did some research about how to repair the problem, and found a warning not to move the transmission output shaft when the part that holds the sprocket is removed, or parts inside the transmission case will come apart, and you have to disassemble the transmission to put them back together.
I made discovery of the failure on a Friday night. Since my bike is still in warranty I sent an email to Stealth explaining the problem, but I sent it the wrong department. I didn't get a reply till the following Tuesday that said my email was being forwarded to the correct department. The next day I received a reply from the warranty repair department asking for information about the failure.
By then it didn't matter anymore because I had already located new bearings locally, and made repair on Tuesday. Total cost for 2 bearings was $36, and I was able to just walk in and buy them. Now my bike is as good as new, and back on the road again.
I was surprised this bearing even failed in the first place, because it's not terribly stressed for a bearing this size. I'm pretty sure it was a Chinese manufacturing defect, and not caused by excessive wear and tear.
I don't think there's much more speed left in it, and I'm not really interested in trying to find any either. To tell the truth I wasn't trying to top it out when I hit this new record speed.
Now that I have a second charger at school I can ride both ways on a full charge, so I don't have to hold back. It's only 13 miles each way. That being the case I don't pay that much attention to the CA on this commute, and it's not in a line of sight position that makes it very easy to see when I'm going fast anyway. I just check the statistics when I put it on the charger. There is of course some up, and downhill grades on the route I take, so it's highly possible this speed was recorded on a downhill.
Have you guys noticed this on your bikes? I've observed that downhill doesn't improve the top speed very much on this bike. I've had it over 53 mph on level ground, so 55.5 isn't much of an improvement if it was on a downhill.
I've noticed that this bike goes whatever speed the throttle is set at. It's not like a regular ice motor where the speed varies depending on grade, with a constant throttle setting. This bikes runs like an electro magnetic force holds the speed constant to the throttle setting regardless of the grade, even downhill. Of course it varies a little bit, but not very much.
Now that I have a second charger at school I can ride both ways on a full charge, so I don't have to hold back. It's only 13 miles each way. That being the case I don't pay that much attention to the CA on this commute, and it's not in a line of sight position that makes it very easy to see when I'm going fast anyway. I just check the statistics when I put it on the charger. There is of course some up, and downhill grades on the route I take, so it's highly possible this speed was recorded on a downhill.
Have you guys noticed this on your bikes? I've observed that downhill doesn't improve the top speed very much on this bike. I've had it over 53 mph on level ground, so 55.5 isn't much of an improvement if it was on a downhill.
I've noticed that this bike goes whatever speed the throttle is set at. It's not like a regular ice motor where the speed varies depending on grade, with a constant throttle setting. This bikes runs like an electro magnetic force holds the speed constant to the throttle setting regardless of the grade, even downhill. Of course it varies a little bit, but not very much.
It could of been a tail wind. My topend is about the same, it's the acceleration where I might have an advantage over your bike. Going up overpasses I hit 42mph. Going down, I don't gain anymore topend. My new tires do roll a lot smoother.
That is cool that you can charge now at your school. My total commute is 12 miles both ways. I use to charge at work too, but it's not possible with my new bike.
That is cool that you can charge now at your school. My total commute is 12 miles both ways. I use to charge at work too, but it's not possible with my new bike.
I have noticed that the wind has a bigger effect than most hills. A headwind also sucks a lot of power unless I keep my speed way down. A tailwind helps slightly with top speed, and makes a big difference with range.
My bike is so heavy, especially with my fat butt riding on it, that acceleration is controlled mainly by the amp limits. Set for 60 amp, acceleration from low speed just rides the limiter until about 25 mph. It accelerates as fast as it's weight, and 60 amps allow.Then it seems like it comes off the limiter about 25mph. Acceleration seems more normal in the 25 to 45 mph range. After 45 mph wind resistance slows acceleration considerably.
i have noticed the same thing with wind, when i pedal assist into the wind it is actually harder then pedaling up a hill so it makes sense
