Silverbear's Honker Headlight

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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
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We all have our different tastes, bike styles and a favorite kind of "look". Having never grown up (just old) I remain stuck in a 12 year old mentality from the days of putting playing cards in the spokes and pretending I had a motorcycle and not a single speed fat tire pedal bike. I'm still pretending I have a kinda sorta motorcycle to ride, even if my builds start out as bicycles.

So, I like fatty tires, vroom sounds from the exhaust pipe, suspension forks and honker headlights just like on a real motorcycle and not just a pretend one. If you like big headlights, too, read on. If you don't you know where the delete key is located.

The first one of these lights I adapted was an experiment. I saw it at Harbor Freight for just 12 bucks and couldn't resist. Nice chrome, seemed well made... what a deal. Kinda big, but... I've since seen the same dune buggy light at NAPA for $18.00.

They come with a 12 volt halogen bulb that is way out of scale in power demands for a bicycle, so that needs changing. They also come with a pedestal mount which did not work for me since I use mine mounted between the ears on a moped fork. So, I'd have to remove the stock mount and figure a way to affix it to the fork ears. No problem, probably.

Since this light will fit between the ears of a moped fork I need to remove the stock mount and drill holes where allen bolts will come through from the inside of the light and fit into the mount holes on the ears. So I mark them with a felt tip pen, both the drill hole and an arrow for lining it up again when it gets put back together.

Remove the retaining ring and carefully pry out the lens/ bulb assembly. Drill the holes in the headlight shell and then remove the pedestal mount.

I'll have to search around to see if I have photos of the next part. In the mean time I'll picture it with words. Take a look at the lens/bulb and you'll see where at the back there is a phillips head screw holding in the little halogen bulb. Remove it. Now there is a small square opening which you are going to grind out to the size of your donor bulb. What I use for the donor is also a deal from Harbor Freight. It is a flashlight with 32 LED bulbs in it for about 5 bucks. It is very bright, uses 4.5 volts of battery power, but will also accept 6+ volts from a China girl magneto or a sidewall generator. I've used both with no problems.

Say that you, too, are going to use a small flashlight for your donor. With a hacksaw cut it off somewhere along the barrel part where the batteries go. A dremel cut off wheel makes a lot of heat which can wreck the LED's. Safer with the hacksaw. Get a bit of wire, maybe a foot or so and solder one strand to the spot where the battery would have fit against the bulb end of the flashlight. Drill a little hole at the edge of the barrel so you can attach the other wire with a small screw. The barrel on mine was aluminum, so a little screw or bolt will tap it's own threads. One of the photos shows the connections. I use the hole already in the headlight shell for running the wire through, but first run it through a section of gas line fitted into the hole so that the wires won't be rubbing against metal and short out once the insulation is worn through. The kind of hard part is done...
(cont.)
SB
 

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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
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northeastern Minnesota
A couple of things from the last photos. After grinding out the opening for your donor light assembly you'll need to rinse out the grindings from inside the lens. I just ran water through it and let it dry well before fitting the cut off flashlight into the opening. Then I used an epoxy to glue it firmly into place.

For mounting bolts I suggest you use allen head bolts since it makes it easy to hold the bolt firmly with the allen key while you affix a nylock nut to the outside of the housing. Put the chrome ring back in place (this also needs to have holes drilled in it) before attaching the nuts. Fit it into the holes on the fork ears. Now a lock washer and an acorn nut on each Allen bolt and the headlight is mounted.

It's funny how the headlight shrinks a bit tucked in close to the triple tree between the ears. It's still a honker of a headlight, but that's what I like!

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=488191#post488191

Above is a link to the American Hybrid Trike this headlight is for. I've used this same light on my American Flyer with canoe sidecar and a couple of other bikes. And I'll no doubt use it again. For less than 20 bucks total, it's a deal.

I'll try to find the other photos and will post them here when I do or take more pictures when I adapt the next one, but there's enough information and pictures here that you shouldn't have any trouble. (Famous last words.) Good luck!
SB
 

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biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
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That's a good looking headlight silverbear. I'm doing some work right now on improving the headlight on my moped that might be beneficial for your light too.

I'm converting a standard 25w incandescent bulb, which isn't very bright, to a Cree LED bulb. The advantage of using a bulb of this type, is low current draw, but very bright. In my case it's a 1156 bulb, but they have all types.

These kind of bulbs have to run on dcv though. That's one of the problems I've had to overcome on my moped, because mopeds run there lights on acv, and have really weak electrical systems similar to china girls. This is the rectifier I made that works the best so far.

 

bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
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lookin' good, sb...:)

i'm figuring out a system using the sturmey archer dyno drum hub to run one of those million candle powered rechargeable spotlights, crammed into a similar headlight bucket.

even without the SA hub charging it, you could probably charge it from a wall socket for a few hours and have enough juice for a long night ride.

should have it figured out by the time i have two working arms to build it..
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
I like it SB. Big headlights just look good. I have two giants, called Tripp Speedlights, that were an aftermarket light they sold in the 30s. They're big, about 8" diameter and have a movable reflector which can be adjusted to give a spot or a flood light. Both lamps work but they look like movie projector lamps and they mount backwards in the case and shine into the reflector. I'll dig them out of a box in my basement and take a picture. One would look good on a vintage cruiser.

Tom
 

racie35

Active Member
Nov 17, 2012
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Great job silver bear! I am buying a earlier ambassador headlight for my 2008(so earlier 2008) because they're bigger...I like em both though
 

Tinsmith

Well-Known Member
May 15, 2009
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Maryland
SB, when you said big headlight I read it Big Headlights, so I was expecting something else. Good work anyway.
Dan
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
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northeastern Minnesota
Thanks for the nice comments, you guys.
Dan, sorry to disappoint. Hmmm, I wonder if that's got anything to do with my liking big lights on motorcycles... ha! Could be.

Bikenut,
I don't know much about this stuff, but I agree that the LED bulbs draw lots less juice. The other thing I like is that they seem a lot more tolerant of voltage range than incandescent bulbs. Years back I had regular bike lights powered by a sidewall generator which I'm sure was producing more power at motorbicycle speeds than it was supposed to. I burned out a lot of bulbs that way. Once I started using flashlight LEDs I haven't burned out any which is especially interesting since the sidewall generator has got to be putting out more than six volts at 25 to 40 mpr. Yet the flashlights run on three 1.5 volt batteries normally, which is just 4.5 volts. So that's a plus I think. Running the lights from the China girl engine I get the flickering, but from the sidewall generator (D.C.) the light is steady.

I'm guessing the rectifier takes care of the flickering light from the A.C. source, making the light steady. Is that right?

What is the capacitor for? If my understanding is correct, the capacitor stores some juice for either a sudden burst of high energy or doles it out more slowly until the capacitor is 'empty'. Is that right or do I have it screwed up in me little brain? If it stores it and lets the juice out slowly then that would mean the light would stay lit for a little while even when the magneto or generator was no longer making juice. Is that right? That would be cool, if so, because when I stop a bike using a sidewall generator the lights go out. Not so good if the idea is to be seen while you're sitting at a stop sign or traffic light at night. Not that I ride around at night much.

For me the lights are mostly so that I will be seen by others. Not so much for me riding around in the forest at 3:00 A.M. But I could if I wanted to, if say I had a girlfriend down the lake with big headlights.
SB
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
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thanks for the nice comments, you guys.

For me the lights are mostly so that i will be seen by others. Not so much for me riding around in the forest at 3:00 a.m. But i could if i wanted to, if say i had a girlfriend down the lake with big headlights.
Sb
lol...lol...lol
I happen to be a fan of "big headlights" :)

Tom
 
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biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
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This is what the device I made looks like. The white wires hook up to ACV. The yellow, and red put out DCV.



I'm not an expert myself, but I'm surrounded by experts who helped me create this devise for my moped. It took a little trial and error to get it working well, but was pretty easy.

Now I'm thinking it would be easy to adapt this same kind of devise to a china girl's electrical system to power LED lights, and current draw should be so low that it shouldn't cause any power loss to the engine.

I'll try to explain what the capacitors purpose is, please bare with me. With alternating current we have a sine wave that alternates between x amount of positive volts, and the same x amount of negative volts. Lets assume the peak voltage is 12 VAC. That means the voltage alternates between a peak of positive 12v, and negative 12v. 12 volts is just the peak though. We also have 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, and so on down to 0 volts, and then 1, 2, 3, 4 negative volts, and so on down to 12v negative.

Now we add a full wave rectifier to turn the voltage into DCV. Now what we have instead of a sine wave, is a pulse wave that goes from 0, to positive 1, 2, 3, and so on up to positive 12VDC, and then 11, 10, 9, and so on back down to 0. When the voltage gets back to 0, it starts going back up to the 12 VDC peak, always positive VDC.

The problem with this is our LED requires 12 VDC minimum to operate. Although we have 12 VDC peak voltage, our average voltage may only end up being about 7 VDC. Not enough to operate our LED bulb.

That's where the capacitor comes in. By adding a capacitor parallel across the DC output, it has the effect of smoothing out the difference between the peak voltage DC, and the minimum voltage DC. Now the average voltage is much higher. Enough to run our LED.

I hope everyone can understand this explanation. Soon I'm going to start trying to add one of these devises to my china girl and see if I can get bright lights without hurting performance.
 
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biknut

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Sep 28, 2010
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I should mention I made a mistake in my diagram above. The diode bridge is 200v instead of 60v. That voltage isn't that critical as long as the voltage value is higher than the input voltage ever going to be. In this case the input was only 12 vac.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
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northeastern Minnesota
I sure had that all wrong. Thanks. Someone here on the forum, I think it was Cobrafreak was talking about a light unit he had which he was powering with a sidewall generator (if I remember right) and this magical electrical thingy stored up a bit of the electrical energy and let it out to keep the light lit while the bike was stopped. It came with his light unit. No it wasn't a battery. I've heard of those... ha!
SB
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
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I sure had that all wrong. Thanks. Someone here on the forum, I think it was Cobrafreak was talking about a light unit he had which he was powering with a sidewall generator (if I remember right) and this magical electrical thingy stored up a bit of the electrical energy and let it out to keep the light lit while the bike was stopped. It came with his light unit. No it wasn't a battery. I've heard of those... ha!
SB
I know what you're talking about. Some of the hub dynamos come with a capacitor that keeps the light on for a short time when you stop at a light.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
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northeastern Minnesota
lol...lol...lol
I happen to be a fan of "big headlights" :)

Tom
If I remember right I first began to pay close attention to and appreciate big headlights at around the age 12. Lot's of things I found interesting at that age have come and gone through the years, yet big headlights continue to fascinate.
SB
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
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I saw a bumper sticker on this ladies car that said, "Save the ta ta's", and I was thinking what the heck's a ta ta? then I noticed the pink ribbon lol.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
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northeastern Minnesota
I know what you're talking about. Some of the hub dynamos come with a capacitor that keeps the light on for a short time when you stop at a light.
Yes, that's what it was! Part of a front wheel drum brake generator. Would one of your smart friends know what that thing is exactly and how one would wire it into a system in order to use it? I find the idea exciting because I don't like screwing around with batteries. A simple sidewall generator in 6 volts is easy to come by on ebay or off an old bike. Pretty cheap. Keep it oiled and only engage it against the wheel when you actually need the juice and it will go for a long time, at least mine have. Beyond a few miles per hour the light is nice and steady and bright.

While I don't want to pay big bucks for an ultimate system, I don't need the most powerful lights in the world. I use one of my little copper jewel lights with the business end of a nine LED flashlight inside and it is adequate for a tail light or a pair for turn signals. (Which reminds me, I do intend to do a little how-to on making copper jewel lights one of these days.) That and the much brighter 32 LEDs in the honker headlight and I'm good to go. I don't ride along a brightly lit thoroughfare in a big city... not a lot of competing light, so I don't need the very ultimate best. My headlight lights up the road in front of me nicely and most important it makes me visible to motorists... but not if I come to a stop. No juice... no light.

If this capacitor is not terribly expensive or difficult to wire in, then it would be the cat's meow for lots of us. An inexpensive system that pretty well negates the need for battery backup and lets us forget about trying to rig up a generator or alternator to run off a Harbor Freight or other four stroke with no electrical system to tap into for lights. Keep it simple, keep it inexpensive and keep us safe.

Can you find out?
SB
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
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I'll have to ask, but I think one of my friends might be able to shed some light on the subject lol.
 

MitchellSmith

New Member
Jun 6, 2013
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Not that bad lights at all. I am not too crazy about bikes but still thinking of adding new handle bar lights..Do you have some information about these lights.shft.
 
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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
I'll have to ask, but I think one of my friends might be able to shed some light on the subject lol.
Not that bad lights at all. I am not too crazy about bikes but still thinking of adding new handle bar lights..Do you have some information about these lights.shft.
Hello Mitchell,
I'm not sure what you're asking about... the capacitor Bikenut is investigating, his wiring diagram, the headlight I made from a Harbor Freight dune buggy light or the flashlight I used as a donor. I'll try to answer if I know what you're asking.
SB