What Are These Parts and What Are they Used For (w/ Pics)

[Jizzle]

Hello im putting my first bike together today, well its day 2. I have to go to the harware store and get longer bolts, makes shift mounts ect.

I got a couple parts one im not sure what it and the others im not sure were it go's.

I know the one is the fuel filter I also got the filter that screws into the gas tank. Do i use both? Do i cut the fuel line and but that filter in between each line?

Im not sure were the red washer go's. Im not sure what or were those other things go.

The instruction booklet sucks and ive been useing that plus watching you tube videos.

 

[2door]

The black threaded part is a tool used to remove the drive sprocket and the small gear on the right side of the engine.

The red washer goes on the fuel petcock that threads into the fuel tank.

Yes, to install the inline fuel filter you must cut the fuel line and make sure the direction of flow is correct. The fuel should pass through the filter from the outside of the cone shaped filter element, not the inside. In other words the cone's small end should face up towards the tank. Also, check the inside of the fuel tank for rust and dirt. We always suggest the new tanks be cleaned prior to installation. They come from the factory dirty.

The metal straps are muffler clamps.

Hope this helps.

Tom

 

[Jizzle]

Helps alot thank you

 

[Jizzle]

before i even read your post i took a air tank nosal and sprayed the tank with air, hopw that was enough cleaning. I could tell it was dirty in there

 

[nightcruiser]

before i even read your post i took a air tank nosal and sprayed the tank with air, hopw that was enough cleaning. I could tell it was dirty in there

Probably not..... if you don't have gas in it yet then you should try to clean it out better.

 

[Jizzle]

Probably not..... if you don't have gas in it yet then you should try to clean it out better.

ok what would you suggest i do?

 

[wayne z]

I use a handfull of peagravel and some water in the tank. Shake it all around to loosten scale and rust. Flush it real good with water and leave it in a warm place(sun, top of hotwater heater ect. until it is bone dry.

 

[nightcruiser]

I use a handfull of peagravel and some water in the tank. Shake it all around to loosten scale and rust. Flush it real good with water and leave it in a warm place(sun, top of hotwater heater ect. until it is bone dry.

Yep, something like that will work. I shook some bearings around inside mine then flushed the **** out of it in the utility sink, and used some microfiber cloth that grabs particles on the end of a wire to poke around inside and clean/dry it out. Then set it in front of a fan overnight to let it dry out.

 

[Al.Fisherman]

The black threaded part is a tool used to remove the drive sprocket and the small gear on the right side of the engine.

The red washer goes on the fuel petcock that threads into the fuel tank.

Yes, to install the inline fuel filter you must cut the fuel line and make sure the direction of flow is correct. The fuel should pass through the filter from the outside of the cone shaped filter element, not the inside. In other words the cone's small end should face up towards the tank. Also, check the inside of the fuel tank for rust and dirt. We always suggest the new tanks be cleaned prior to installation. They come from the factory dirty.

The metal straps are muffler clamps.

Hope this helps.
Tom

The tool also will remove the large clutch gear.

Also for a quick drying time if pressed for time. Stick a hose (as large as you can) in a gas burner exhaust and into the tank. The exhaust will heat up and dry moisture. I use this method when tanks have had gas in them and I want to weld/braze them.

 

[nightcruiser]

The tool also will remove the large clutch gear.

Also for a quick drying time if pressed for time. Stick a hose (as large as you can) in a gas burner exhaust and into the tank. The exhaust will heat up and dry moisture. I use this method when tanks have had gas in them and I want to weld/braze them.

I thought the same thing when I got my kit, "What's this thing?" Didn't take long before I figured out this thing pulls the drive sprocket easily, and it also pulls gears from the other side of the motor. Kinda neat little device really, you'll appreciate it after you have had to use it. If you ever find yourself temped to pound or pry something loose, go grab this tool and see if it threads on somewhere! LOL

 

[Jizzle]

is it common for the motor to be hard to turn over? i havent put gas yet but after installing the chain I notice its really hard to turn. can hardly peddle it.....Nevermind i think i need the clutch installed first, which im having trouble finding instructions.

 

[nightcruiser]

is it common for the motor to be hard to turn over? i havent put gas yet but after installing the chain I notice its really hard to turn. can hardly peddle it

if you are trying to start out pedaling or rolling the bike with the motor engaged, yah, should be pretty tough... You need to get rolling with the motor disengaged and pop the clutch to start the motor. Once you are rolling and pop the clutch you can get the motor to turn over, even if it isnt running, but you have to be going a few mph to keep it going and it will be quite a drag on your pedaling...

 

[Jizzle]

idk my clutch doesnt seem to be making it go free wheel it all the way to the inside as it will go and its the same.

 

[nightcruiser]

idk my clutch doesnt seem to be making it go free wheel it all the way to the inside as it will go and its the same.

kinda hard to understand that sentence you wrote there, but with the cable out, the clutch arm should move freely away from the motor but meet resistance as it comes roughly parallel with the cover plate (as it starts to push the bucking bar) When it starts to push the bucking bar the cable end of the clutch arm should only need to move a short distance to disengage the motor (just less than an inch). You may or may not be able to make this happen with your bare hand depending on your strength and how the clutch is setup. If the clutch arm needs to travel further than that to disengage the motor you might check that the nut is tight on the drive sprocket. If that nut is loose the whole clutch shaft can recede into the motor and the bucking bar will have to travel further to disengage the clutch. You might also confirm that the bearing that goes behind the bucking bar hasn't fallen out....

 

[Jizzle]

ok you understood me...basicly my clutch is not disengaging...i beleive. I know the little rod and ball berring is in there. Il check the nut to see if its tight.

 

[Jizzle]

ok man i figgured out it takes some force to engage the clutch so il have to adjust the cable and spring to get it to work.... Im haveing a problem now with my chain comeing off i know its becuase my sprocket was wobbly when i put it on... not sure how im gonna get it straight since every bolt I measured and they are tightend to the same depth.

 

[wayne z]

Sounds like you have too much slack in the clutch cable. I useualy adjust out the slack until the clutch slips when trying to pedal start, then add a little slack back to the cable.

 

[nightcruiser]

ok man i figgured out it takes some force to engage the clutch so il have to adjust the cable and spring to get it to work.... Im haveing a problem now with my chain comeing off i know its becuase my sprocket was wobbly when i put it on... not sure how im gonna get it straight since every bolt I measured and they are tightend to the same depth.

Make sure you put lots of light weight oil down your clutch cable, that will ease up the amount of force you need on the clutch. The factory routing on this cable is really bad, causes lots of drag and makes the clutch really hard to pull. I put a roller on my clutch cable and it pulls almost like a brake now...
You're gonna have to get rid of that rear sprocket wobble, whatever it takes, you'll have nothing but problems if you dont.

 

[Jizzle]

thanks everyone... I think i got it all and hope fully will be riding tommarow. I know how to adjust the clutch. im gonna clean the gas tank tonight and let it dry over night. And then try and get the wobble out of the sprocket and thats not gonna be easy. If anyone has tips on that id appreciate it.

 

[wayne z]

Side to side don't have much effect unless it is a lot, like more than 1/8". Front to back wobble is most important to eliminate cuz it makes the chain go tight and loose with every revolution.