Hey Guy's I Would Like To Offer My Machine Shop Services To Anyone That Needs It. We Have 21 Years Experience. Our Specialty Is The Detail Parts That Make The Difference On Your Custom Build. Sprocket Hubs, Sprocket Modifications, Chain Tensioners, Gas Tanks, Reproducing Antique Parts, We Will Soon Have Casting Capabilities. Send Me Your Rough Sketches. We Have Autocad And 3-d Modeling Software. We Will Model Your Ideas And Show Them To You Before We Machine. We Can Make Your Ideas Become Reality. Alot Of Guys Don't Have Access To A Machine Shop Which Can Really Make The Difference Between Just Another Bike And A Show Stopper. Give Us A Call. The Rocket Engineering Co.(630)710-3977. Ask For Mike
Machine Shop Service
- Thread starter mpr455
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hmm - sounds cool... do you have any pics/examples of your work? Ya'll tooled up for any motorized bike stuff already?
guy's, hubs will be fifty dollars and the ignition box covers will be about $30.00 that is not finalized yet. i will also anodize any color you want for no charge. i have pics of the hub on my monark thread take a look and see what you think- big mike
big. that`s inflation for ya! it used to be 1000 words! lol just kidding, not meant to offend. ron
guy's here is some pictures of the hub. this is similar to the maniac mechanic hub only mine is a bit more stout and uses a stock sprocket. the maniac mechanic hub is a beautiful piece as i have seen one in person and will work just fine. but i just wanted to give people another option.
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But you can just buy jims for 50. and i you can just drill out the holes bigger on a stock sprocket to match. now the anodized would be cool. got a pic of the cdi box? 30. sounds a lil steep for somethin so small. What about intakes and motor mounts? will ya be making these?
guy's, don't have pics of cdi covers yet. still working on prototype. i will have something soon. as far as 30 dollars being too steep. my main business is making prototype and one off parts for race cars, hot rods, antique cars and the occasional custom motorcycle. i machine and do some sheetmetal. i do not manufacture parts by the thousands. my stuff is made to order and in the case of the cdi covers i will make in runs of 10. i will design the part, make the pattern, make the mold, pour metal into the mold, clean, machine and polish the part then ship to you. that is an awful amount of work for 30 bucks a pop! after you break a few cdi boxes and have to replace them you could have paid for my little cover. i saw a need for this after a lot of the local guys where complaining about the tabs on the cdi breaking off. my design is going to be finned aluminum so it will have a vintage look to it. my hub was also designed to be a little more "period correct" the other hubs look great on a chopper or custom bike but not on a vintage restoration which is where my interests lie. i may make intakes, and i have a prototype for a front motor mount clamp to replace the stock grubee. it is made for a 1" down tube. i also have an idea for an aircleaner housing again with the vintage look. hope i explained myself good enough for you guys. i don't intend on getting rich of this stuff. i just want to make a little extra $$ for my favorite toys.-big mike
Sirs; I just bought a new Harley Davidson Velo Glide Bicycle, gonna motorize it, but want to maintain the HARLEY!!! I need a gas tank, see pic of what I have and give me your sugestions???
Jim
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yes your right 30 isn't that bad, i would love to see more items and pics i am def interested in ordering a few things from ya, since other sources seem to be very unreliable
Hi mpr455
Can you professionally manufacture this style of chain tensioner for the SickBikeParts Shift Kit.
Can you professionally manufacture this style of chain tensioner for the SickBikeParts Shift Kit.
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Not to sound harsh as there IS potential - but there's at least four tensioners/guide rollers goin' on in there 
While I can see the need - there's got to be a simpler way, I see that bike's even got the newer style SBP tensioning system (disabled) with that and a 1/2 link as necessary, doesn't that work well 'nuff for at least the drive side? What's up w/the chunks of plywood?
While I can see the need - there's got to be a simpler way, I see that bike's even got the newer style SBP tensioning system (disabled) with that and a 1/2 link as necessary, doesn't that work well 'nuff for at least the drive side? What's up w/the chunks of plywood?
There are plenty of chain tensioning devices for single speed drive systems, but none for the SBP Shift Kit.
When you travel up to a max distance of 300 miles per week, constantly tweaking the chain tensioner becomes a pain in the backside - there had to be a better method - a decent set-and-forget chain tensioner, like my design was born out of necessity.
The plywood is for the angle iron to have a positive place to transfer it's pressure from the threaded chain tensioning rod.
It doesn't matter how tight the angle iron bracket and shift kit brackets are clamped, they always slide down the frame tube under engine tension and vibration.
Fabian
When you travel up to a max distance of 300 miles per week, constantly tweaking the chain tensioner becomes a pain in the backside - there had to be a better method - a decent set-and-forget chain tensioner, like my design was born out of necessity.
The plywood is for the angle iron to have a positive place to transfer it's pressure from the threaded chain tensioning rod.
It doesn't matter how tight the angle iron bracket and shift kit brackets are clamped, they always slide down the frame tube under engine tension and vibration.
Fabian
Thank you - I've an incomplete build utilizing the shiftkit and am trying to anticipate high-mileage use, problem is I dislike tensioners lol
Still, I'll use 'em if I hafta - can't wait to see where this leads
Still, I'll use 'em if I hafta - can't wait to see where this leads
I've got about 3000 kilometers on the tensioner and it's still operating like clockwork.
One work of advise to everyone using the shift kit, or more specifically, the chains for the shift kit and the original pushbike drive train.
-:- Use 9 speed chains for them both. I've used 415 chain, 410 chain, single speed chain and 9 speed chain.
By far, a good quality 9 speed chain with a power link, like SRAM is the most stretch resistant out of the lot of them. I know this sounds impossible that such a small and flimsy chain can be this strong, but that's the way it is.
With a powerlink, you can unclip the joining link and easily remove the chain from the bike to check for stretch or damage and also for cleaning.
Fabian
One work of advise to everyone using the shift kit, or more specifically, the chains for the shift kit and the original pushbike drive train.
-:- Use 9 speed chains for them both. I've used 415 chain, 410 chain, single speed chain and 9 speed chain.
By far, a good quality 9 speed chain with a power link, like SRAM is the most stretch resistant out of the lot of them. I know this sounds impossible that such a small and flimsy chain can be this strong, but that's the way it is.
With a powerlink, you can unclip the joining link and easily remove the chain from the bike to check for stretch or damage and also for cleaning.
Fabian
