whizzer clutch

DannyDodge · #1 (**permalink**) 05-22-2008, 08:57 PM

anyone words on how to make the clutch work better on the reproduction models? i cant even pedal start the bike, and it takes me 15 mins to get it started due to the belt slipping when i kick it over,l other than that its a sweet bike we got over 50 miles on it

MotorbikeMike · #2 (**permalink**) 05-23-2008, 09:16 AM

Hi Danny, other people will want to know the proceedure.

It is always good to tell the year, and if you have manual or auto clutch. I am going to guiess you have an auto. And nice to know where you are located.

The best tool to adjust your belts will be easily made by sawing a 2x4 into a wedge about 12-14 inches long.

Your front belt is the one that will usually slip, as it has the smallest amount of belt to pully contact.

Make sure first that your chain has proper tension, and that the rear wheel is straight.

If not correct that first.

Now, with the bike on it's stand, rotate the rear wheel, and watch to see which belt slips.

The rear belt tension is adjusted mainly by the upper bolt in the slot (nut is on the right side in fron of the welded motormount)

Front belt tension is adjusted by the bottom nut under the engine.

In either case, loosen the "Hands" on the front bar.

Remove chrome belt guard (4 screws)

Set your wedge between the engine and the seat tube, be sure to aim high enugh not to clobber the chain guard.

Tap the wedge in with heavy hammer, I use Rubber dead-blow mallet.

Snug all nuts and bolts, tap out the wedge, and you are done.

I usually test ride without the belt guard in case I'm not happy with the adjustments.

IF you cannot get your belts tight enough, they are streached, and will require replacement, tho this is rare on low milage bikes.

Mike

Egor · #3 (**permalink**) 08-27-2008, 01:52 AM

Mike on the whizzer I just got, it is a 24" auto clutch and it has no provision for a clutch cable like Paul's bike. I have been messing around with the thing and decided to leave the bolt through the clutch joint loose and let the spring keep it tight. Is that the correct method? I was thinking that if it kept things tight for the cable bike, why not! Also it has an elongated hole for the bolt so that everything can move forward or back to accommodate the belts, IE, it will keep them both the same tension. This bike has a larger header than the earlier bike, looks OK, different sound. I am going to move the cam tomorrow and get to the timing as quick as poss. The carb is fat but I think after I get the other things moved it may be just rite. It needs the two speed. Have fun, Dave

Egor · #4 (**permalink**) 08-27-2008, 02:02 AM

This is a pic of the bike, it cam with a Tac also I need to install. Have fun, Dave

H20rider · #5 (**permalink**) 08-27-2008, 12:05 PM

Is it advisable on a 1999 Whizzer (stock but about to do full power upgrades) to change a manual clutch to an auto clutch? There seem to be obvious advantages, but are there disadvantages of an auto clutch? Relative reliability and durability? Maintenance?
Thanks

MotorbikeMike · #6 (**permalink**) 08-27-2008, 08:23 PM

Hi Guys, before I give any answer, or opinions let me preface by saying that I LIKE maunal clutches, and 4-speeds, and HotRods cars and such.

With that said I can honestly state that on the whole, the Manual does require more attention to the belts.

I have gone thru a couple or three on my own bike, BUT for me, the trade-off is that 6.49 replaces a clutch in my Manual bikes, and is infiantely repairable to the extreme, that on my vacation, I changed a front belt, on the sidewalk of a Kragens, and roared off in just a few minutes.

On the other hand, IF the auto-clutch DID need servicing, it would not be possible to buy any parts a Kragen, other than the belt.

A properly adjusted and seated Auto is simple to ride, and MIGHT out accellerate a Manual, depending on the rider. The Auto requires NO skill to ride, just roll throttle, and aim the bike in the direction desired.

The auto requires being taken off and "split" about every 300-400 miles to clean and grease (lightly) the inner bearings. This is easy to do.

OK now, the hole in the auto-clutch is SUPPOSED to be round, tho I ave seen a "slotted" one, I don't think slotting that are is a good idea.

The earliest auto's had manual arms with the slot, that was stopped along the way.

About early 2006 the larger pipe came out it WILL improve the performance overall, as will the new gold-wrapped silencer insert.

If you do decide to change out your manual clutch, let me know, I am interested in the Manual parts for my own bikes.

Mike

Egor · #7 (**permalink**) 08-27-2008, 11:47 PM

I looked at the clutch mounting today and noticed that if I reach in from the right side and grab the top of the pulleys I can wiggle then, like the hole is too large for the bolt, YES it is elongated from the factory. I guess with belts it doesn't matter there is not much alignment. The forty's way doesn't seem to fit in a modern time warp. I took the cover off to move the cam and found it moved! the bike has never been fooled with, Oh Well. The carb is a pain it is so fat the thing just blubbers, I took the air filter off to see if it would be better no luck, the main jet is too large, the cut on the front is too small and the needle is too high. I want an old tillotson. A pic of the way I found the timing. Have fun, Dave

PS: Those lifters are the worst.

MotorbikeMike · #8 (**permalink**) 08-28-2008, 12:52 AM

HI, well some of the cams were set correctly at the factory, mostly more recently, but the early ones were almost always retarded ( marks on center).

The Whizzer can use the newer Mushroom lifters, which are more efficient, especially if they are "tuned" a little.

The carb can work well and I and others have jets for it.

An old tillitson would be, as they say in Mexico "Un gigante dolor en el culo", I would not want to chase parts for a 50 year old plus carb at this point.

If you want to try other carbs, I have heard of Kien Hien, Mikuni, Walbro, and I am sure there are others, tho that stock cab can work very nicely, and is, for the most part, stable and trouble-free.

Let us know what you are up to, and remember, the Whiz in is not that far away!

Mike

H20rider · #9 (**permalink**) 08-28-2008, 08:36 AM

Thanks a lot. Think I'll stick with the manual.
Any brake improvements possible while keeping the manual?
Again, thanks

Egor · #10 (**permalink**) 08-29-2008, 12:37 AM

I moved the ignition timing today WoW what a difference. After I got it started the idle was too high, the engine was not laboring any more. I even had to adj the idle mixture again, then I took it for a ride, well it was like a completely different bike, it is still too fat but when I cut the throttle back to a place it does not blubber it really takes off. I want to see what the head looks like and see what I can do there. I have built some old flathead Fords and we used to relieve them and get a few extra HP's. Ill keep you posted. Have fun, Dave

PS: Mike, do you have the mushroom valve lifters?