I got a new Whizzer and a bunch of questions

NEAT TIMES · #21 (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 11:38 PM

Lenny, Congratulations. Having Trouble With New Machine Is A Pain In The But%. But Will Probably Pay Off In The Long Run. Good Luck. Keep Us Posted. This Is A Big Family. Ron

lennyharp · #22 (**permalink**) 09-23-2008, 10:55 AM

Well I got my Whizzer back from the dealer yesterday and I have a feeling I did not get a true story of what thew problem was with the carb and it's irregular behavior. I can go pretty reliably now and it wants to cruise around 30 and will go to about 35. At 20 to 25 it falters some and it almost never stays running at a stop light or idle. Sometimes it still sputters and refuses to gain speed for a 100 or more yards in the 15-20 mph range. I did put about 35 miles on it last night. They said I had messed up the idle screw adjustment and that was all they did. I see that they managed to empty an almost full gas tank to figure that out and had no answer for paint chips in the fuel filter. I think I will learn to do my own repairs as they are a scuzzy bunch but the only place I found in Phoenix selling the Whizzer. I am enjoying that it should get me to work dependably and around town.

Weedylot · #23 (**permalink**) 09-23-2008, 09:38 PM

Mine has been stalling at stops since I rescued it. It has less than 200 miles even though it is a '98. I am following Quenton's advice and am doing no mods...yet. I am going to adjust the richness/idle after a little more break-in. Have you perused the helpful advice from Quenton?

Quenton Guenther · #24 (**permalink**) 09-23-2008, 10:19 PM

Hi Weedylot, If the oil vent hose is attached to the breather, you might want to disconnect it before it loads the air breather with oil and causes the motor to run even richer [acts like the choke is slightly on]. As you know your motor will last longer [WC-1] if you keep it running cooler [no mods].
Have fun,
Quenton

lennyharp · #25 (**permalink**) 09-23-2008, 10:28 PM

Thanks, WeedyLot,

I will be looking at all Quenton's stuff as I learn about this bike. He has written a bunch of advice here and on other forums. I can't say I will leave things stock but the motor I may not do too much to. I find that it really wants me to pedal to 20 mph before it will take over the work. This seems a weakness that needs to be addressed. I can think of one remedy and that is to add gears so it is easier to pedal assist. I may build a custom wheel for my whizzer as it's first modification.

lennyharp · #26 (**permalink**) 09-23-2008, 10:41 PM

Here is a link to the hub I am thinking about...
Sturmey Archer
This is available as a 3, 5 or 8 speed but with a motor I think the 3 is good. I can then assist on long climbs like to Payson or Flagstaff or Mt Lemon down Tucson way. The brake would also improve a little.

Weedylot · #27 (**permalink**) 09-24-2008, 04:16 PM

I don't know enough to advise on changing hubs, I need to learn more . Quenton, I disconnected the oil vapor line the second week I had the bike, thanks to your previous postings I've decided to keep my Whizzer all original.

lennyharp · #28 (**permalink**) 09-24-2008, 10:36 PM

Actually the wheel building is the part I do know but it will not be totally traditional. I am more interested in functional and making it go good. Next year I may decide to build a frame for it because I do not like the cantelever frame. Nostalga does not enter in when you have ridden as many miles as I have. Performance trumps looks every time. The reason to change wheels would be only to help the pedal assist. I may just add a derailluer and a 6 speed cog and spread the frame to match.

Quenton Guenther · #29 (**permalink**) 09-24-2008, 11:10 PM

Hi Lennyharp,

If you upgrade your motor with the NE parts and do a few minor modifications you won't have to worry about using the pedals. The only time I used my pedals was when I ran out of gas a few years ago. You can at least double the power with little effort. I ran a motor this year at Dawson Springs, KY that went 40.3 MPH @8820 RPMs in 150 feet, and was mostly stock including a stock head and camshaft. My biggest problem was keeping the front wheel down, and I didn't use the pedals, in fact my Whizzer didn't have any. If you need me to build you a special cylinder let me know.

Have fun,
Quenton

Quenton Guenther · #30 (**permalink**) 09-25-2008, 01:02 PM

Hi Lennyharp,
Here is the information I promised you. Some late 2007 and the 2008 models Whizzers have mushroom lifters. Sadly when Whizzer sent the information from my tests and prototype lifters, their vendor added their usual "lack of quality control to the equasion". Although the mushroom lifters solved the major problem of camshaft & lifter mismatch [either eats the camshaft lobes or destroys the lifters], they are poorly made. There are 3 major problems with the new mushroom lifters, 2 can be resolved and the 3rd makes them useless. Some of the lifters were cut undersize [approx. 5%] and can't be fixed, but so far the majority are OK [95%]. All the lifters I purchased from them are way too heavy, and can stress the valve train, and when they ground the base, most were not level. Both problems can be corrected with a drill press or a lathe, using a 3/16" drill. Simply drill out the center deeper [hollow out lifter]and stop approx 1/4" from the bottom of the lifter. Next put lifter in lathe or drill press and make sure the base is level, if not, use a file/sandpaper to level the base [I use a lathe and make sure the base is within .0002"]. Removing the lifters for service/modification is an easy task, but takes about 1 hour to remove, re-install, and adjust. Remove the side cover, pull the camshaft out [if it didn't come out with the side cover], remove the carburetor, remove the compression cover, loosen and remove the lifter adjustment bolts, let lifters drop down [I place a shop towel under them so that they don't drop into the oil in the crancase], re-work them, reverse the process to re-install. It is importand to advance the camshaft one tooth [counter clockwise], and set the lifter clearance to .006" intake, and .008" exhaust. When Whizzer made the extended manifold their vendor added the usual "lack of quality control" and drilled the holes at an odd angle, which means the manifold matches the intake better one way than the other. Simply rotate the manifold and see which way the manifold is closest to matching the intake port. It is important to discuss their choice of intake gaskets because most of the gaskets they use are too wide and creates a large gap [for the air/fuel flow] between the manifold And the cylinder. Order 2 of part number 16229 intake gasket and open the center hole to match the intake port, install the restrictor spacer [after you open the hole to match the intake port], then another 16229 gasket, then the manifold, then the carburetor. I use a thin version of the NE intake gasket between the manifold & carburetor, but isn't needed because the "O" ring in the carburetor mouth will seal against the manifold, I just put it there to make extra sure it never leaks. It is important to use the thin version because the thick gasket will hold the "O" ring away from the manifold and defeat the purpose. Now a few comments about the 22 MM carburetor, most if not the majority are jetted way too rich for most areas, and the earlier versions were sent out way past the workable range. The earlier 22 MM carburetor used a #95 main jet, then later they reduced the size to a #88, but in fact most [98%] need either a #82 or an #85 [and yes I have lots of #82 & #85 jets in stock].

Hope this information is helpful.
Have fun,
Quenton