I got a new Whizzer and a bunch of questions

I took the float bowl apart and looked at it, and wouldn't you know it is not the one at Whizzer's site with a parts blow up view. I did not see a screen and did not want to break so put it back together. The system is two floats (about silver dollar diameter by 1/4-3/8 inch thick) mounted parallel but hinged between. The two floats are on the pivot of the hinge and float edgewise in the trough shaped bowl. I still get a sputtering straight line and power on in turns where I lean. If I weave like a drunk on a bike I can help the power but not enough to feel like I will get to work 14 miles away. It pops and back fires more than normal I think, but I don't know what normal is. Mike, I did pay taxes on top of the 1495 so it was over 1600 dollars.

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LennyHarp of Lenny's Bikes & Things
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The true value of a man is not judged by what he has, but rather by what he can do without.
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I'm wondering if the fuel pickup in the tank has a tube on it inside the tank. Mabye the tube is out of position and not sitting on the bottom of the tank?

Lenny, if you can get it over to my place today before 11am or so, we can take a look at it.

I opened up the trough shaped bowl and found no screen. The carb is not the one on Whizzer's site
Whizzer Motorbike Carb
The floats are side to side shaped like fat silver dollars and hinged so they float sideways in the bowl. I saw nothing I knew to adjust or change so I put it back together and rode. Same story where if I sway and lean like a drunk I gain power but when I ride straight line like I tend to do it sputters, pops and backfires or just wants to die.

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LennyHarp of Lenny's Bikes & Things
http://lennyh.com
The true value of a man is not judged by what he has, but rather by what he can do without.
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an action, but a habit." -- Aristotle

Mike I did pay tax so it was about $1614.08 or some such number.

HI Lenny, well your dealer ate the shipping, last one I had here cost 156.00 just to land it at my place!

I still wonder about fuel chips in the tank, and the screen there clogging? the float setting on the Kien Hin copy is usually 22mm from deck to float.

My brothers bike had the paint chip deal and so did a couple of the 2-strokes I built.

Let us know?

Mike

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That could be as we found paint chips in the filter over at datz510's shop. I will take it back across Phoenix asap to get them to check it out and get running reliably. I was the classic eager buyer with too little time even to test ride. I was sure that they would have it going but assumed wrong. On the stand it seems to work but not riding!

Yep, its gotta be paint chips in the fuel system. We took the carb completely apart and did find that the main jet threads were sheared off, like they tightened it too much at the factory. There's still barely enough thread to hold it in, but with the jet in two peices, that might be part of the problem.

We did find a lot of paint chips. We pulled the filter and I blew most of them out of there with carb cleaner, but there's probably a bunch in the tank or bunched up in the fuel valve.

I do REALLY like that bike, Lenny. I'm gonna have to get myself one of those eventually.

My wife may sell mine but I wanna make it go. I am so tired from swerving back and forth for 20 + miles today. Cars did not like me doing that, but I only worried as a police man passed me. Fortunately we have wide bicycle lanes most of the way in Mesa.

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LennyHarp of Lenny's Bikes & Things
http://lennyh.com
The true value of a man is not judged by what he has, but rather by what he can do without.
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an action, but a habit." -- Aristotle

Hi lennyharp,

Whoa! Don't sell the bike. Just have the dealer replace the carburetor. Some of the carburetors were less than stellar, but Whizzer usually replaces them without much fanfare. The carburetor listed on their website is out of date and in fact is a WC-1 carburetor used on the 1999 classic model. I don't think Whizzer has ever bothered to release any new service manuals since the first one. If you have any problems replacing your carburetor or need any parts for it I have a very large supply of parts, including the main jets, floats, float bowls, needle jets, slides, gaskets, etc. for all versions of the Whizzer carburetors [Vintage Tillotson, Vintage Carter, WC-1, 22 MM, 26 MM, and the rare WC-1 replacement].
Although you should never remove the restrictor plate, you might want to re-locate it. The restrictor plate works best if located between the cylinder and the aluminum manifold, and helps keep the carburetor cooler. I have heard rumors that if the 9.5 MM bevel hole in the restrictor were to be open by say a "Gremlin" [code word for Dremel grinder] to match the hole in the cylinder intake port, the bike would start to run as you expected it to.
I know a "Gremlin" [me & my Dremel] modified all my restrictor plates on all my bikes, except for the Ambassador which was assembled with a larger matched plate from the factory.
It is important that you consider all the comments from MotorbikeMike about the float height and removing paint chips from the fuel system, because that is the most common problem, and gas cap problems rank next. I would suggest you take a close look at the tank where the cap seals and remove any loose paint to avoid future problems. If you remove the cap on a hot day or after the motor is running and you hear a "whoosing" sound, it means the tank is under a vacuum. Many will tell you to drill a small hole in the blue assembly under the cap. I won't waste your time by telling you to do that, instead I will suggest you bend the 3 little tabs that hold it in place, and remove it. Either way you alter it's purpose and make it non-operational, and it is much easier to bend the tabs and place the little trouble maker on the shelf. Don't discount the possibility of a problem with the gas cap, because at Portland, IN several years ago my 1999 went 3 MPH faster with the cap loosened. I tried another new cap and had the exact same results, so the stock cap will effect the fuel flow, and a defective cap can almost stop the flow after a few minutes of travel time.

Hope this information is helpful, and once you get the bike running correctly, I doubt you will want to sell it.

Have fun,
Quenton

Quenton,

Thanks for the info as I definately do not want to sell my bike. I hope to depend on it as a reliable source of transportation. I work 12 hour days and then am off a few so tomorrow I can take the bike to the seller and get things working right. I will wean myself from the seller rather quick because I want to learn to fix it myself. I do need it to work right to start off with and expect I can get it going right with a visit. I will probably empty the fuel and make sure paint chips and sediment are not a factor, but after they get it running right.

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LennyHarp of Lenny's Bikes & Things
http://lennyh.com
The true value of a man is not judged by what he has, but rather by what he can do without.
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an action, but a habit." -- Aristotle