Spring Return Chain Tensioner

Norco John · #61 (**permalink**) 06-05-2009, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rynos63

Nice catch... I just noticed that... Thanks

Glad to help! Love the set-up, too, BTW.

Rynos63 · #62 (**permalink**) 06-05-2009, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norco John

Glad to help! Love the set-up, too, BTW.

Thanks....

Junster · #63 (**permalink**) 06-08-2009, 02:31 AM

I know if you need to clear the lower wheel stay then you have to use a tensioner. But if you can get away without one it's alot better. An aluminum shim behind the rear mount works great. It doesn't take alot if you get it close with or without a half link.

HoughMade · #64 (**permalink**) 07-01-2009, 02:38 PM

-Like I said about 3 months ago, I have had the arm, roller and spring for some time (over a year)- just got around to putting the tensioner together last night. Works well, look good. However, I am taking it apart and changing a couple of things. First, I used a 5/16" U-bolt as it was pre-bent, the right size and plenty strong enough. I like the look of npt having threads all the way around, but that's just me. I also have obtained a 1 1/8" muffler clamp. I am going to use the saddle from it as That will secure the u-bolt better. Probably unnecessary, but nearly everythin on my bike is. there are a couple of other things, but I will post pics shortly which will do a better job of explaining it.

Thanks for the idea!

Bikedad1 · #65 (**permalink**) 07-01-2009, 03:53 PM

I fabricated a spring loaded tensioner this weekend and it looked great but I am having a strange problem. When I am coming down a hill under no power my chain jacking (the chain slapping up and down) is so bad I can feel it and hear it stressing out the clutch and it was so bad I removed my fabricated tensioner and went back to my original. Has anyone had this problem?

Cabinfever1977 · #66 (**permalink**) 07-01-2009, 05:11 PM

maybe you need a stronger,shorter, or tighter spring.

Bikedad1 · #67 (**permalink**) 07-01-2009, 05:27 PM

I tried two different lengths of springs and strong springs and soft springs and got similar results. It seemed to be worse when I used stronger springs. Perhaps I should try applying the tension to the top of the chain and not the bottom of the chain and see if that helps. I also noticed that when i put pressure on the chain with the tensioner that the clutch became really loud!

Cabinfever1977 · #68 (**permalink**) 07-01-2009, 11:11 PM

i use my stock tensioner. besides the 2 stock bolts on tensioner i also have a bolt behind the tensioner held in place by 2 hose clamps that keeps the tensioner from moving at all.

HoughMade · #69 (**permalink**) 07-02-2009, 10:34 AM

Here is my version of the tensioner. It is based on Misteright1_99's design, but with my own tweaks. As you can see, i still use the original tensioner for chain gudance as i need to to maintain clearance.

Scotchmo · #70 (**permalink**) 07-02-2009, 05:24 PM

To HoughMade, - that is a cool bike.

I was skeptical of spring loaded tensioners on these bikes since the chain is also used to start the engine and that switches the tight side of the chain over to the tensioner for a brief period. When that happens the spring loaded tensioner/guide gets displaced and the chain may jump the sprocket. Your design solves part of this problem by adding a second roller as a tensioner and retains the original chain tensioner to act as a guide to minimize that problem.

If someone does run a single spring loaded chain tensioner, make sure the spring is strong enough so that the compression braking does not make the chain go slack. It may still go slack when you start the engine, but as long as it does not jump off, you should be OK