Spring Return Chain Tensioner

eDJ, I agree those are the 2 issues to be addressed and they work hand in hand. It is practically impossible to get the sprocket "perfect" to center, and therefore you always have a tight and loose condition as the wheel turns, especially in my case as I am runnig a 50t sprocket, a smaller sprocket say 1mm out of round is not going to be as bad as a larger sprocket. The spring loaded tensioner keeps the chain tight on the drive sprocket during the loose condition, as well as cut chain slap. I tried to go without a tensioner at all but when tight I was afraid it was putting to much strain on the sprocket bearing, rear sprocket, engine mounts, etc. The other is the stock #415 chain is junk and I feel to narrow for the sprockets especially when new, they "stick" to the sprockets and alot of times have to have a dremel or grinder to remove some of the metal edges to release the chain.


P.S. This post was posted by the Admin. to the "Classic Instructions" section for others to use...

Half links are available at WW Grainger, go to Grainger Industrial Supply the half links are grainger stock number 5X297. Happy Trails Walter F.

Thanks Walter, that eliminates the 1/2 link source question. "Granger". Speaking of decent chain for these simple stamped metal sprockets.......Who would be good sources and what chain brands would be good choices. I used some Blue Diamond long ago from an old bike store that sold different chain sizes off bulk rolls they had. I don't know if LinkBelt is still selling roller chain as they used to or not. (in my area they used to sell alot of it to the coal mining companies and manufactures of glass and ceramic)

Granger only sells standard chain 40, 41 and so on. This chain is narrower than 40, and I don't think there is a match from a motorcycle dealer. The Honda 50 uses 420 the 90 uses 428. This chain is unique to the china Happy time. The pitch is the same as all those chains including a standard bicycle chain, but you can't buy a Happy chain made here that I know of. Have fun, Dave

PS: I have all my bikes running the chain that came with the kit and have not had any problems. The rear sprocket is OK I have not had any problems there ether just keep it tight and in line, I put the bolts so that they are near the spoke to the rear, so if it slips it has further to go to touch the spokes in front.

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Chuck - The monkey has the spark plug again! http://motorbicycling.com/f28/chuck-...gain-5782.html

Here are the part numbers from Baja Motorsports, that will make it easier to find on the TSC website. Thanks for the info TED...

Baja Motorsports Chain Tensioner Assembly
SKU 551023899 $9.98

Baja Motorsports Spring Tensioner
SKU 551025499 $2.98

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48cc Grubee Starfire Round Head......

misteright1_99, thanks for posting the info, your willingness to share how you made your bike better is the embodiment of what this site is supposedly about... best regards....

Thanks Nomad. I have read so many good ideas from others, I felt it was a small contribution.....

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"No such thing as a stupid question, just a stupid answer"

48cc Grubee Starfire Round Head......

To fab a chain tensioner I used a skateboard wheel and bearing purchased for five dollars. Then a SS nut and bolt for $1, plus scrap metal and a spare spring from an engine-raising rack-mounted project.

This chain tensioner works like a charm. It also takes up the slack so I can swap sprockets without adding or removing chain links.

My chain tensioner broke on my third test ride. So I simply took 4 links out of my chain and of I went. My chain has become a bit looser since I've been putting a few more miles on it. Actually I am probably going to have to take a link or two out this weekend. Is there a downside to not using a chain tensioner? If so I would like to know before i take any more links off my chain. My friend is using the chain tensioner on his bike and we have noticed that mine running without one seems a bit smoother.

I've not seen a downside to running without a tensioner. You can use spacers between the rear motor mount and the motor to take some slack out of your chain. There are some pics around here somewhere of some spacers a member made, they look like t-shirts, cut out of some kind of metal. I just used nuts on the studs between the motor and the mounting piece that slides on the mounting studs. Just remember that the size spacer used will take double the slack from the chain, since the spacer used will take that slack from both the top and bottom run of the chain. So 1/4 inch spacer will remove 1/2 inch slack from the chain.

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