Lonesome Rack'ee

BTW- it's for sale, see the "Swap Shop".

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If it ain't broke, and you mess with it long enough, it will be.

Hi,

I dont tend to pedal with the 32cc although with the 25cc its pretty much required the extra torque of the 32cc lets you dispense with that.

The dropped handlebar position is ok apart from the long rides. I have fitted up a plastic coated metal storage canister approx where a frame mount engine would fit which carries tools and extra fuel (when I can get hold of another small half wine bottle or two)

Stability is good and the bike is quick - I have set up a muffler exhaust so its quieter and with the recent modifications its not as restrictive as it was before.

Jemma xx

In answer to some questions...

LPA is very rarely needed on this bike - cepting the steepest hills

The belt is fairly easy to get off if you dont have alot of crap on the back axle like me..

reliability is bomb proof..

Jemma xx

A suggestion if you think you might start installing "frame mounting" type racks as a part time hobby business.

One of my early customers is also now frame-mounting GEBE kits, so he and I are cutting the steel blanks 20 at a time, enough for 10 bikes, pre-drilling that top centered hole the engine mount attaches to.

This would be the same advise for Staton or any other frame-mounting possibilities.

And I mentioned how we are now sandwiching a rubber gasket in this thread:

GEBE frame-mounting mod that works


If you think you are going to build more for your family and friends, start making steel drilling jigs of the 2 holes above the axle slot where they attach.


In other words, if you get a Wally World bike, or a Schwinn, or a Sun, etc, when you get those bottom holes lined up perfectly, make 3 copies, 2 for that bike and one to keep for future use when another identical bike shows up on your porch.

Basically, you save quite a bit of time if you repeat success.

Between us, we have now built up an "archive" of 6 different bottom hole alignments, and it makes it SO MUCH EASIER if you have those jigs available, for the next time you see the same bike.

(I finished one antique Raleigh bike where the gap between the holes exceeded the width of my steel blanks, so I had to buy wider 3 foot piece of steel, durnit. But at least I have a jig if it ever shows up again...never )

I also had a carpenter take one of Denis' perfectly centered wheels and make me 3 curved 8 inch wooden jigs, to slip in the space between the spoke ring and the wheel, so as I'm aligning the notches, I keep those wooden spacers in the gap to ensure even better ring centering.

I rode Jacks California Stretch Cruiser the other day, the one he claims tops out at 52mph, and instead of the GEBE supplied front strap, he bought a heavy gauge aluminum strip at the tractor supply, and I'm thinking about making that a permanent modification too.

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Hi all,

Just finished fiddling and fighting with my bike to get a new rear tire inner tube installed... A job that will get simpler methinks the more times I do it.

It was nice to get some help from a next door neighbour - although I think he was more doing it to flirt and satisfy his curiousity about the bike that be useful - still it was nice to talk to him.

I have also fitted up a new exhaust as detailed in the pics below - this is for a GEBE engine and instructions to make are as follows...

remove stock silencer from Tanaka engine and reverse so fumes blow out to the LHS.

Obtain 2 .140 exhaust elbows for model aero engine exhuasts (the largest they do)

cut the angle off one of these and obtaining a short length of copper piping (maybe an inch to two inches) of the same bore as the exhaust itself make up a joint between the two. You will need a slightly shorter piece for insertion into the angled end with that pointed towards the back of the bike

Attach the straight end to the tanaka exhaust stub - under the top strap with two cable ties to attach.

Take two lengths of 5/32 and two lengths of 1/4 brass piping and tape securely at both ends. (I've used masking tape)

Place a large cable tie inside a small size hose clamp and put this round the 4 pipes - do not tighten fully as yet

making sure that you have attached the tape *very* securely push one end into the angled end brass section - you are aiming for an interferance fit at this point - you may need more or less tape.. then use more of the tape around the joint (again tightly taped) to minimise loss - you dont want the hot exhaust blowing onto the belt.

Using the large cable tie secure the hose clamp to the the GEBE mount as tightly as is possible and then tighten the screw on the hose clamp till the exhaust is held securely.

Parts:

2 x .140/.160 model aircraft engine exhaust angles (heat resist rubber)
2 x small cable ties
1 x large cable tie
2 x 1/4 brass pipe
2 x 5/32 brass pipe
1 x small screw hose clamp
1 x brass pipe (suitable size to be slightly larger than Tanaka exhaust stub)
Masking or heat resistant tape

Jemma xx

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Hello Ms Jemma,

Thanks for the pictures. I have been pondering about this addition.

Also, I had heard that this can cut down on speed. Have you noticed a difference in your Saturday testings?

Timcycle

P.S. Be careful with the copper. They are stealing it left and right here in the U.S.

Blog: Golden Eagle Bike Engine Motor For Bicycle
Blog Kit Build and Experience from June 2007
Golden Eagle Bike Engine ~ Subaru Robin 35cc 4 Stroke
Current miles : 2,664 ~ Parked due to broken spokes

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Hi,

Its a little down on top speed - or rather it takes longer to get there - but its not by much and its very hot here for the UK (26 centigrade) and humid which never helps her. I think I will keep this mod because it quietens down the bike and makes it sound much more refined than the screaming banshee wasp it used to be.
They are cutting copper out of live electric lines and phones lines in the UK - but they wont get far with the bike exhaust - its not copper - tis brass pipe the same you'd use for water pipes and the like.
Im looking for sponsorship for Sasha's Run btw... (see thread)

Jemma xx

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Ditched that and have finally gotten my tuned pipe fitted up.

31mph uphill! - much more responsive and for some strange reason its also quieter. It doesnt seem to have much effect on fuel consumption but then I can roll along at 1/2 throttle at 30mph when I would have been WOT before!

Thats the good side - the bad side is I managed to break a spoke lol - this setup needs more babying than the stock exhaust did - it has so much more power.

Got the pipe welded and fitted up by a professional shop.. who charged me £40 for about £90 work, and spent a fair amount of the time staring at the bike.

Oddly although the bike is much stronger through all the range of speeds it doesnt seem to be much faster at top end. I cant say that I mind this considering it was already fast enough. I cant recommend a tuned pipe enough - but remember do not ride the bike like you did before, something will break *sigh*

Jemma xx

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hi jemma,

the tuned pipe you added is that the tanaka one , and if so has it made your bike any quieter, but i want to some some photos asap as it looks like a real beast....

Hi Vegas,

Its the Tanaka kart pipe - I think the top end problem is that the thing is tuned for something that has 10inch tyres not 26 and so unless its got a long stretch to roll up the revs it wont top out.

When I am not popping solpadol painkillers I'll get some better pictures done. I ache all over... and the shop who did the repairs - they missed the shifter cable which is almost shredded and the brake cable as well... what was worse the back wheel bolts (I checked on the off-chance) were only finger tight!! moral of that story is check peoples work *before* you trust your life to it.. I have a fist sized bruise on the back of my thigh and my back/neck and pretty much everything connected to them hurts. Last pic is what remained of the original brake lever which ended up saving me from probably broken bones.

Speed into a headwind has improved from 27-28 WOT to 30-31 3/4s throttle. The engine is much more willing and it sounds like a baby motorcycle - like one of the high revving 70's bikes. Im getting about 28-30 miles to the litre at the moment.

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